Much more sophisticated than its price suggests, Ninth Island is not only the best fizz under $20 this year ($19 at Kemenys), it might also rank among the best I’ve ever tasted at this price. There’s no indication of age on the label, but the youthful cork in the bottle I tasted in Tasmania indicated a fresh, young disgorgement. It’s an elegant, clean and refreshingly dry apéritif style of virgin purity, intricately crafted with well handled fruit and neatly integrated dosage to showcase crunchy lemon zest and granny smith apple appeal. Everyone needs a bottle of Ninth at the ready in the fridge at all times.