H&V is Peter Lehmann’s most exciting new label in recent years, a collecting point for special parcels that narrowly miss the cut for the more famous labels of this iconic brand. The exquisite 2012 season meant there was more great old vine Barossa semillon on hand than Margaret required, so this young style was created with the same attention to detail. Early picking creates a pale, vibrant straw-green hue and a taut, fresh style of cut grass, lemon and lime fruit. It’s crunchy, energetic and refreshing, with excellent fruit presence and clean acid line. A bargain at $19 at Grays and Templestowe.