Immediately after tasting this wine, I dove straight into my cellar and opened a bottle of Peter Lehmann Reserve Riesling 2002, the predecessor of Wigan and one of my favourite Australian rieslings of all time. My hope was that the 2009 might be on the same level. It’s not. But, blimey, it’s not far off. Capturing such breathtaking complexity with in a high-tensile frame, maintaining a bright, pale straw-green, even at five years of age is testimony to the exacting precision of the exceptional Lehmann outfit and to the calibre of the Petney family’s vineyard in High Eden, the highest and most southern vineyard among Lehmann’s Eden Valley growers. The wine has got everything going on, from glacé peach, mixed spice, dried fig and baked apple, to fresh kaffir lime zest and lemon juice, with a wonderful overlay of struck flint reductive complexity. Its acid line is breathtakingly youthful and vivacious, with a gentle mineral texture and immense persistence. $25 at Gray’s Online.