On the surface, this new label appears to be quite a deviation from PHI’s home of Lusatia Park Vineyard in the Upper Yarra. In truth, it’s a perfectly natural fit for the brand, communicating the detail of its place every bit as articulately as PHI has in the Yarra. The deep red Cambrian volcanic and limestone soils of PHI partner Stephen Shelmerdine’s family vineyard in northern Heathcote are showcased in a fine, chalky, mouthfilling texture in a manner that is rarely captured in this region. Lovely poise of red cherry, redcurrant and plum fruit is laced with grenache’s characteristic fragrant spice, anise and hints of pipesmoke. It’s outstandingly persistent, exactingly intricate and brilliantly stylish; testimony to the exemplary skill of this operation. $35 at Rathdowne Cellars.