Pipers Brook has long been responsible for the excellent Kreglinger and exciting Ninth Island sparkling wines, and this cuvée slots neatly in between, in price, age and stature. Never have I seen it more impressively poised or seamlessly harmonious than the current disgorgement. It captures the lemon zest vibrancy of cool Tasmanian fruit and seamlessly melds it into a silky, creamy, textural palate by caressing it with long lees ageing and a small portion of French oak barrel fermentation. The result is layered with brioche, preserved lemon and honey, with taut acidity and honeyed dosage finding a comfortable synergy. $35 at Pinot Shop.