For a house once led by pinot noir, Pol Roger is increasingly focusing on chardonnay in its vintage wines, and recent vintages of its Blanc de Blancs demonstrate why. Testimony to the molecular precision of Pol Roger’s exacting regime, the propensity of this cuvée to age is astonishing, and the past few vintages seem to escalate every time I come back to them. And 2002 just might prove to be the most enduring of all, charged with the electric energy of the season, perfectly massaged by almost a decade in Pol Roger’s deep cellars. Lively lemon blossom, citrus fruits and white peaches abound, touched with brioche, toast and a flattering hint of struck-flint reduction. There’s an understated confidence to its fruit power, giving voice to finely poised chalk minerality. $112 at Vintage Cellars and First Choice.