With a name that any cartoon superhero would be proud of, Zamberlan is an impacting McLaren Vale cabernet that this year could confidently masquerade for something at a significantly higher price. The recipe here is unusual, because newly fermented cabernet is passed over the skins of Moda (its big brother) to “juice it up”. 2010 is a particularly well-defined and age-worthy rendition, loaded with cabernet hallmarks of leaf and edgy capsicum, with confident support of the cedar and dark chocolate of very classy French oak. It needs plenty of time to tame, and has the tannin presence and persistence to go the distance. $28 at Wine Selectors.