Quartz Reef has established itself as an impressively crafted and surprisingly refined and classy sparkling style, quite unexpected given the impact for which this region’s wines are renowned. 42% chardonnay goes a long way toward balancing the presence of pinot noir, a low 8g/L of dosage is well balanced, and 24 months on lees has ensured acidity is well knit. The bouquet is refreshing and expressive, with the red cherry and strawberry hull character of pinot noir enlivened by crunchy lemon zest and red apple fruit. The palate is fruity, primary and refreshing, lingering long, with clean focus of red berry and lemon zest. $28 at Winecave.