I’m often taken aback by the impact of new oak in great young Burgundies, but think little of it as the wines will find their balance in the fullness of time. The overt oak presence extracted from just 25% new oak took me by surprise here. But in the context of longevity, perhaps it should not have. It’s classy oak, to be sure, and it has the fine, firm tannin confidence and fruit length and presence to go the distance. Excellent black cherry fruit, lifted rose petal fragrance and bright acid structure are all there to be enjoyed right away, but the true rewards await those who treat it like a Burgundy and hide it for a decade. $47 at Melbourne Wine House.