In these days of instant gratification we are at times guilty of underestimating the great, long-ageing cellaring specials on release. We excuse top Bordeaux, Burgundy and Barolo and we celebrate their most enduring vintages. The Barossa deserves the same respect, and Old Block won’t show its full colours for at least a decade. It’s still but a baby, with black fruits, nutty French oak and suggestions of charcuterie all in the right places for a long life, only demanding a long time in confinement to unite and meld. A seamless bed of firm, fine tannins provides the support to guarantee this endurance, finishing with unerring line and grand persistence. 2012 vintage to be released shortly.