I cannot think of an Australian wine more daring than this. The wine that Bill Downie describes as “the pinot noir I’ve never made” is a blend of shiraz, a dash of pinot noir and a touch of sauvignon blanc. 100% whole bunch with no punch downs and no pump overs should not work, least of all in cold, wet 2011, in a vineyard so run down that it almost didn’t produce a crop at all. Yet not only has it worked, it’s created a hauntingly ethereal wine of impossibly silky structure, captivating exoticism and profound length. It portrays the internal harmony of its site and the keen minds behind this extraordinary new brand. There is much more to this story to be told. It lands in May. Stay tuned.