Vat 9 is one of the great success stories of the Hunter, and the Tyrrell’s team names the eradication of brettanomyces from the winery in the last decade as perhaps the biggest development in the company’s history. The result is a purity, an effortlessness, an elegance and a delightfully characteristic medium-bodied Hunter Burgundy restraint. Its tannin texture and seamless fragrance are reminiscent of cool climate pinot noir. Once a blend of the best barrels, today Vat 9 encompasses the same three vineyards each year, with lesser barrels declassified, producing a grand total of just 1,500 cases. It’s dynamic and vibrant, with understated black plum and black cherry fruit and subtle violet aromas. $75 at United Cellars and WineSeek.