Tyson Stelzer’s Top 250 Australian Wines of 2024

Australian wine is in a very exciting place in 2024, for reasons completely missed by the headline news.

This is a year in which reporting has been dominated by dramatic oversupply, diminishing consumption, waning exports, drought, frost and economic calamity. Many wineries find themselves at a particularly challenging moment in the cycle. But there’s a very different side to the Australian wine story right now.

The 2021, 2022, 2023 and 2024 vintages across south-eastern Australia represent the finest set of four back-to-back seasons in living memory, breaking a spiralling cycle of droughts and heatwaves with classically cool seasons, delivering beautifully elegant wines across every variety and style.

Australia’s top vineyards and best wineries have never been in a finer place than they are this year, and there has never been a more pertinent moment for wine lovers to restock their fridges and cellars.

Since I retired as editor of the Halliday Wine Companion in 2022, it has perhaps been the worst kept secret that I continue to taste Australian wines incessantly, publishing reviews regularly in WBM and Barossa Mag, as I have done continuously now for almost 20 years.

In response to popular demand, and as an opportunity to give something back to Australian winemakers and wine lovers at this time, it’s my great pleasure to share my Top 250 Australian Wines of 2024, free for all to access, share and reproduce. These represent the finest line up of Australian wines I have ever tasted.

As Australia’s most planted variety, shiraz naturally takes the lead in my list, with 53 inclusions, plus 10 brilliant blends with cabernet sauvignon. Riesling ranks second, representing the best value of all, with half of my list of 34 coming in under $40. Cabernet comes a close third with 33 inclusions, followed by chardonnay (28). Australian grenache continues its rise and rise, with 23 inclusions, just outranking pinot noir (22). No surprise that my Wine of the Year is a benchmark of the great Australian blend of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz!

In singling out my wine of the year for each key variety, I have chosen more than one winner (with the same score) in three of the strongest categories where regional distinctiveness is most deserving of recognition: three chardonnays from the Mornington Peninsula, Margaret River and Tasmania, two grenaches from the Barossa and Eden Valleys and six shirazes from McLaren Vale, Canberra, Hunter Valley, Grampians, Barossa Valley and Eden Valley.

There’s something in this list for everyone, with prices from just $18 all the way to $1250. It must be emphasised that the rising cost of growing, making and selling wine in Australia today is such that there are big dividends for spending more. This year I’d urge you to budget a minimum of $30 for any respectable bottle. It’s no accident that the average price of my list comes in just over $100 this year. Premium wine production is the future for Australian wine, and on current evidence, it’s the present, too.

I commend my Top 250 Australian Wines of 2024 to you. I guarantee you’ll love them!

For all my champagne reviews, see Champagne.Guide.

Tyson Stelzer’s Wines of the Year

Tyson Stelzer’s Top 250 Wines of 2024

Sparkling
Riesling
Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon
Chardonnay
Other Whites
Rosé
Pinot Noir
Grenache
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz
Shiraz
Other Reds
Dessert & Fortified

Sparkling

Seppelt Show Sparkling Limited Release Shiraz 2012

$100 | Great Western | Crown Seal | 13% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2042-2062

Sparkling shiraz was first produced in Australia in the 1890s by Champenois winemaker Charles Pierlot. In 2012, Seppelt fermented whole berries in small open fermenters, followed by 14 months maturation in seasoned French oak barriques (225 L). Traditional method. Aged on lees in bottle for 9 years. 17.5g/L residual sugar.

The 2012 vintage confidently continues the legacy of what has long been the finest sparkling shiraz in Australia and, indeed, the world. The satsuma plum, blackberry, dark raspberry and liquorice density that defines Great Western upholds resonating depth and purity even at 12 years of age, but, as always, it is the super fine texture of its mineral structure and phenomenal tannins that elevate this fabled label to a league all of its own. For all of its depth it upholds a wonderful brightness and elegance. Nine years on lees and 17.5g/L dosage unite every detail in seamless harmony, but it will not be for another two decades that it shows its full promise. 2012 is one of the greats for this legendary sparkling shiraz and a worthy winner of my Sparkling Red of the Year.

Bellebonne Blanc de Blancs 2017

$130 | Tasmania | DIAM | 12% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2024-2032

The flagship of Australia’s top boutique sparkling maker is an exemplar of the finesse and endurance of chardonnay in Piper’s River. Its evolution at seven years of age is something to behold, upholding the definition of lemon and white peach becoming glacé pear and bathing it liberally in all the joys of barrel fermentation and long lees maturation in bountiful layers of spice, brioche, butter croissant and that gorgeous, silky, creamy texture that only Natalie Fryar can conjure. A brilliant blanc de blancs and a worthy winner of my Sparkling White of the year. Just 1212 bottles.

Kreglinger Brut de Blancs 2017

$75 | Tasmania | Cork | 12.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024-2032

100% Piper’s River chardonnay; aged 5 years on lees; 6.75g/L dosage

While the Kreglinger vineyard in Piper’s River is famous for pinot noir, this cool site is well suited to chardonnay, which took the powerful 2017 season in its stride. The purity of apple, pear, lemon and grapefruit upholds energy and poise, building wonderful biscuity complexity and silky texture after five years on lees. Lively acidity carries a long finish of perfectly integrated dosage.

Apogee Deluxe Vintage Rosé 2021

$78 | Tasmania | DIAM | 13% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024-2031

Single vineyard Lebrina, Pipers River; 51% pinot noir, 39% chardonnay, 10% meunier; cool, late harvest; disgorged 12 April 2024

The cool 2021 season afforded Andrew Pirie the opportunity to harvest in early April, unusually late even for his cool site. The result was impressive accumulation of flavour and complexity in his pinot noir, brimming with all the Piper’s River hallmarks of Turkish delight, rose petal and red cherries. I love the seamless contrast of grand cru concentration with the energy and tension of his cool site in this cool season. One of the greats from this wonderful place!

Bellebonne Vintage Cuvée 2020

$83 | Tasmania | DIAM | 12% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024-2030

I love the juxtaposition between energy and concentration that Natalie Fryar achieves in uniting Piper’s River pinot noir and chardonnay, and 2020 represents a grand exemplar. A strong fruit profile contrasts grapefruit and preserved lemon with subtle exoticism of star fruit. Barrel and lees age have delivered wonderful complexity of crème pâtissière, spice and a delightfully silky texture of lingering, creamy finesse. Just 2477 bottles

Primo Estate Joseph Sparkling Red NV

$90 | McLaren Vale | DIAM | 13.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024-2027

Uniting every vintage since the eighties and a selection of the sixties and seventies, this is a sparkling red that contrasts the deep tertiary, savoury complexity of grand old age with the dark berry fruits, black olives, bay, liquorice, sarsaparilla, cherry liqueur and dark chocolate that characterise McLaren Vale. Fine tannins and balanced dosage of old fortifieds complete a finish as expansive and complex as its inimitable recipe!

House of Arras Grand Vintage 2015

$125 | Tasmania | Cork | 13.1% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2030-2040

67% chardonnay, 33% pinot noir; 10% new French oak; East Coast , Derwent Valley, Coal River Valley, Ouse River; aged 7 years on lees; disgorged December 2022; 2.6g/L dosage

Arras means ‘rich tapestry’ and this release exemplifies the style, the cool 2015 season in Tasmania setting a dramatic contrast to the deeply complex and structured style that defines the house. Chardonnay takes a confident lead as ever, honing a focused backbone of grapefruit, lemon and beurre bosc pear. Ten percent new French oak barrel fermentation heightens its grilled toast and roast nut complexity. Energetic acid drive is set off by dosage, melding seamlessly with the creamy texture of long age and barrel work and the lively, intricately honed, fine-grained phenolic edge of Arras. As crafted and enduring as ever, and a grand tribute to IWC Sparkling Winemaker of the Year, Ed Carr!

House of Arras Blanc de Blancs 2015

$136 | Tasmania | Cork | 13.2% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2030-2040

East Coast, Derwent Valley, Coal River Valley and Pipers River; 10% fermented in new French oak barrels; aged 6 years on lees; 2.5g/L dosage

By contrast with Champagne, Tasmania turned on a delightfully cool season of excellent yield and impressive acidity in 2015. Ed Carr allowed his fruit to ripen fully, creating a spectacular Blanc de Blancs that captures the season in an energetic and enduring edge of grapefruit and lemon, accented with exotic nuances of pineapple. In concert with a full 10 percent new oak fermentation, six years of lees has built beautifully layered complexity of brioche and crème pâtissière. Low dosage perfectly accents the seamless union of bright acidity, creamy texture and super-fine phenolic bite, promising a long and distinguished future.

Stefano Lubiana Grande Vintage Brut 2011

$90 | Tasmania | Cork

95 points | Drink 2024-2031

A grand exemplar of southern Tasmanian sparkling that captures an enticing juxtaposition between character, intensity, tension and elegance. The laudable lees age program at Lubiana has afforded this energetic, cool season the opportunity to build tremendous texture while upholding its full enduring potential, with many grand years before it yet.

Deviation Road Altair Brut Rosé NV

$40 | Adelaide Hills | DIAM

94 points | Drink 2024-2027

South Australia’s finest sparkling house is on more pristine and pure form than ever, with wonderful cut and crunch uniting seamlessly with flowing texture and enduring persistence. The elegance of a pale salmon hue carries through a graceful and effortless journey from pristine bouquet to delightful palate. Kudos Kate and Hamish Laurie!

Bellebonne Bis Rosé NV

$45 | Tasmania | DIAM | 12% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2025

70% pinot noir, and a tiny amount of meunier, the balance chardonnay; mainly Bluestone vineyard, Piper’s River and some West Tamar; 30% barrel fermented (pinot and chardonnay); 2022 base vintage; 5-6% reserves from 2019, 2020 and 2021 in two tanks; colour from pinot noir dosage liqueur; disgorged September 2023; 8.25g/L dosage; 1150 dozen (and 2023 will be 2200 dozen plus 500 dozen Bis Blanc).

Baby Bellebonne has never been on finer form, embracing the mood of Piper’s River pinot noir with fragrance and supple texture. The inimitable touch of Natalie Fryar builds wonderfully soft texture for intricately handled barrel fermentation. The result is a gorgeous rosé of class and sophistication.

Pipers Brook Late Disgorged 2017

$55 | Tasmania | DIAM | 12.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2029

56% pinot noir, 44% chardonnay; Tamar Valley; aged 5 years on lees; 7.2g/L dosage

I loved the bright precision of this vintage on its first release in 2020 after two years and it’s evolved to a marvellous place now after five years on lees. It upholds impressive primary citrus and apple crunch amidst building complexity of biscuit and spice. Vibrant Tasmanian acidity focuses a long and energetic finish that promises plenty more years of life yet.

Bellebonne Vintage Rosé 2021

$90 | Tasmania | DIAM | 12% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2029

Pinot noir takes on a unique elegance in Piper’s River and Natalie Fryar has made it a life pursuit to capture it, expressed nowhere more eloquently than in this cuvée. I love that a rosé of such pale, bright, pretty salmon hue can hold such presence of Turkish delight, rose petal, strawberry and red cherry fruit. Old oak barrel fermentation draws out its savoury, biscuity, spicy side and creamy texture, sliding into a supple and silky trail like only Natalie can conjure. Just 2640 bottles

House of Arras Rosé 2015

$136 | Tasmania | Cork | 13.6% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2030

61.7% pinot noir, 37.7% chardonnay, 0.6% meunier; East Coast, Derwent Valley, Coal River Valley and Pipers River; 10% fermented in new French oak barriques; aged 6 years on lees; 2.4g/L dosage

Confidently led by pinot noir, this is a rosé that celebrates the confidently structured style of Arras and the subtle tint of straw bronze. With new oak increased to a full 10 percent, there are layers of biscuity, nutty, spicy complexity beautifully integrated by the creamy texture of long lees age. A core of red apple and beurre bosc pear carries a long and inviting finish, delivering waves of deep complexity.

Clover Hill Late Disgorged Blanc de Blancs 2010

$160 | Tasmania | Cork | 12.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2030

4.9g/L dosage aged in French oak foudres; disgorged November 2021

After more than 10.5 years on lees, this is a Clover Hill of creamy texture and deep complexity of honey, roasted nuts, buttered toast and mixed spice. The confidence of Piper’s River chardonnay sets a finish of tension and drive, carrying preserved lemon freshness long and intense.

Mumm Tasmania Brut Prestige NV

$40 | Tasmania | Cork | 12.5% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2024-2025

Pinot dominant, 55%, with 5-10% meunier, intentionally fleshy and silky, predominantly from growers, mostly in the Tamar Valley and Piper’s River. Aged 18-24 months on lees according to taste. Some processed in Tasmania and some in the Barossa. 6g/L dosage.

Excellent pinot fruit definition of purity and crunch, expertly assembled and expressive of cool Tasmanian origins with lovely soft texture and appeal, built on a core of citrus. A classy and well-crafted Tasmanian cuvée at a great value price. Little wonder it’s running out in the market and they are working to build more production. Beautiful northern Tasmanian acidity drives a long and focused finish.

Riesling

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2024

$80 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 12.1% alcohol

98 points | Drink 2024-2064

Thanks to a cool season and biodynamic farming, Jeff Grosset proclaims 2024 as the most pristine fruit he has seen since he first planted in the Clare Valley in the early 1980s. By jove! Polish Hill 2024 is as desperately gorgeous as any of the highlights of his lauded career. Dainty white lily, granny smith apple and lemon blossom of pinpoint perfection rise in a dramatic crescendo over a powerful core of talcum powder structure, crystalline acidity and ancient slate texture, tracing a finish unrelenting for a full sixty seconds. It is at once lighter than air and yet possessing a resolute determination that sets a future in the cellar as enduring as the career of its maker. The essence of the Clare, time will most certainly reveal this to be one of the greatest in Grosset’s 44 vintage history, and one of the finest Australian rieslings conjured yet. It is a worthy winner of my Riesling of the Year and my White Wine of the Year.

Orlando Steingarten Riesling 2022

$50 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 11% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2032-2052

2020 is current and 2022 is coming in 2026, with the tense 2021 to be released later.

Another stunning Steingarten that sets a confident and dramatic contrast between the pure lemon and lime citrus tension that sets apart this label and the subtle toasty and spicy and buttery nuances that are beginning to build with bottle development. Brilliant Steingarten with magnificent decades before it!

Henschke Julius Eden Valley Riesling 2024

$54 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 11% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2024-2049

A mild summer has defined a particularly enduring Julius. The delicacy of its lifted apple blossom fragrance is gorgeous, heralding a palate of classic lime and granny smith apple purity of considerable concentration. Cool season acidity traces a long finish of structured focus and long-term potential.

Pewsey Vale The Contours Eden Valley Riesling 10 Year Museum Reserve 2013

$54 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2023-2033

The slow-motion evolution and enduring promise of Pewsey Vale are patently and gloriously apparent at a full decade of age. A core of pristine lemon and lime belie its age, bathed in a glorious overlay of toast, butter, spice and silky, seamless texture. It’s irresistibly enticing at this age, and will easily go another decade still.

Pooley Cooinda Vale Vineyard Riesling 2023

$70 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2028-2048

Aged 4 months on fine lees. 2.8g/L residual sugar.

There is an ethereal grace to Cooinda Vale that the Pooleys have fine-tuned into an intricate balance of characterful complexity, enduring structure and enticing allure, exemplified in this mild and low-yielding season. I love that it’s exotic in its spicy, fragrant lift, precise in its lime and lemon focus, eminently enduring in its brilliant acid line and yet at every moment perfectly polished and graceful. Fine-boned mineral texture and outstanding line and length define one of the great and enduring rieslings of the world.

Pooley Margaret Pooley Tribute Riesling 2023

$95 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2033-2048

1.9g/L residual sugar.

The finest parcels of Cooinda Vale Vineyard have been matured five months on fine lees in old French oak puncheons, subtly lifting texture without for a moment interrupting the purity and grace of sublime fruit – a grand tribute to both the distinction of place and to the intricate skill of the Pooleys. The result captures all the tension, endurance, concentration and character of a mild, low-yielding season; a wonderfully fine-boned and mineral riesling of tremendous potential and promise.

Grosset G110 Clare Valley Riesling 2023

$135 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2024-2034

Biodynamic Rockwood Vineyard on silty loam over 800 million year old red rock; 110 clone; extended lees ageing.

I love the signature exoticism captured by riesling on 800 million year old red rock, captured in pinpoint precision by the exacting fanaticism of Jeffrey Grosset. The result is at once flamboyantly floral, deeply spicy and at the same time resolutely pure in its kaffir lime and granny smith apple crunch. Fennel and anise provide an enticing alternative dimension. Red rock minerality and fine-boned acidity carry a very long finish, perfectly contrasting enticingly juicy fruit.

Pewsey Vale 1961 Block Eden Valley Riesling 2022

$35 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2023-2042

At more than 60 years of age, there is a resolute confidence to these grand old Pewsey vines, infused in a core of impressive fruit concentration and definition. The marvellous, cool 2022 season infuses a tension and brightness, while a year-and-a-half of maturity draws our subtle complexity of toast and preserved lemon. The essence of Pewsey, captivating from the outset, yet infused with enduring promise for the decades to come.

Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling 2024

$42 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 12.2% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2027-2044

The cool 2024 season was particularly spectacular in the Clare Valley, translated impeccably by Stephanie Toole in a riesling of pristine purity, deep concentration and profound endurance. Pitch-perfect granny smith apple and lime build a palate of considerable presence, traced with natural acidity of heightened cut and tension.

Wellington & Wolfe Eylandt Reserve Off Dry Riesling of Tasmania 2023

$50 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 7.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2028-2043

I love the vivid juxtaposition struck here between the salivating, high tensile acidity of this cool site in Piper’s River and the glossy seamlessness of pristine fruit and just the right touch of sweetness. Lime and white pepper are the themes here, and there’s starfruit and fennel, too. Hugh McCullough upholds this as his finest yet, and while it will take decades to show it’s full potential, he may well be on the money.

Grosset Springvale Riesling 2024

$55 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024-2039

The aromatics of this vintage are so lifted you can smell them before you even lift the glass! This pristine, cool season has energised the full suite of granny smith apple, lemon and lime blossom and fruit, set to a them of impressive concentration that lingers on a cool finish of icy acidity and grand endurance. One of the greats.

Jacob’s Creek Survivor Vines Barossa Riesling 2022

$75 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024-2037

Planted in 1922, these 100 year old vines of Jacob’s Creek Block 2 have produced fruit infused with tremendous concentration of kaffir lime and granny smith apple. Their centenary has coincided with a spectacular and cool harvest that has furnished a cool mountain stream of acidity that carries a long finish, promising enduring potential in the cellar.

Pewsey Vale Estate Eden Valley Riesling 2023

$27 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 11.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2035

The legendary Pewsey Vale vineyard is in a magnificent place in the cool and wet 2023 season, styling a classic take on Eden Valley riesling, blessed with all the endurance promised by the greatest seasons. The cool mood of the year is projected in great intensity and purity of kaffir lime, granny smith apple and an eloquent touch of star fruit. Clean, pure, natural acid drive carries a long finish and simmering potential.

Hatch Watervale Clare Valley Riesling 2023

$32 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2038

After 50 years of corporate winemaking and more than 35 at Wolf Blass, it’s no surprise that Chris Hatcher’s own label has hit the ground running in its inaugural vintage. This is a stunning riesling, beautifully articulating the elegant floral fragrance, enduring acid line and limestone mineral structure that characterise Watervale. Pinpoint accurate, it’s destined for a long and distinguished future.

Knappstein Enterprise Vineyard Spring Farm Riesling 2023

$35 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2033

Dainty lily blossom florals are a signature of Enterprise Vineyard and heightened in the cool 2023 season, defining a riesling of gorgeous beauty and poise. These 54-year-old vines have built a classic core of granny smith apple and lime, with a white nectarine flesh accentuated by the wet 2023 harvest. This makes for immediate appeal, while upholding enduring stamina.

Eden Hall Wines Reserve Eden Valley Riesling 2022

$40 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 11.9% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2032-2042

Eden Hall Vineyard. Single Vineyard and single block – the block that was picked as the standout of the season. Only free run used. Stainless-steel ferment and bottled early.

A riesling built for the long haul, there is concentration here of kaffir lime, white pepper and granny smith apple, set to a high tensile structure of cool season Eden Valley acidity. Impressive persistence confirms great potential.

Stefano Lubiana Riesling 2022

$41 | Tasmania | Screw Cap

94 points | Drink 2024-2034

There’s a compelling purity to this cool vintage in Steve and Monique Lubiana’s estate riesling block. Kaffir lime, lemon and fennel are accented with white pepper, laying out a long and honed palate of tension and focus balanced perfectly with body and beautifully polished texture. Saline acidity carries a long finish and promises grand longevity.

Mount Horrocks Clare Valley Riesling 2023

$42 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 12.7% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2028-2038

Stephanie Toole always achieves an impressive contrast of intense concentration and enduring tension in her Watervale vineyard, and the cool 2023 season has heightened both extremes. Classic kaffir lime and granny smith apple are enlarged with kiwi and guava, riding a line of magnificent acidity that promises to project it confidently into the decades to come.

Bubb + Pooley Coal River Valley Riesling 2023

$45 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2028-2038

Sourced from old riesling vines in the Coal River Valley. Fermented and matured in a concrete egg-shaped vessel.

Old Coal River Valley vines build impressive concentration and character, tensioned with the energetic cut of Tasmanian acidity and textured with the structure of fermentation and maturation in a concrete egg. Exoticism of kiwi and guava is beautifully intertwined with yuzu and lime that drive long and strong through an enduring finish.

Pooley Coal River Valley Riesling 2023

$45 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 12.8% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2031

This mild and low-yielding season has blessed Pooley with a beautifully poised riesling that strikes an intricate balance between characterful exoticism, vibrant citrus tension, fine-boned acidity and delicious appeal. A core of lemon, lime and apple brims with orange blossom and frangipani lift, loquat flavours and just the right touch of 3g/L residual sugar.

Grosset Alea Riesling 2024

$48 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2025-2044

The concentration of long, cool ripening sets off an Alea of dramatic presence, contrasting the depth of apple and pear with the energy of crunchy kaffir lime and lemon. Nuances of star fruit and kiwi provide an edge of exoticism. Cool season acid cut provides definition to a long and powerful finish.

Pikes The Merle Reserve Riesling 2023

$60 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2033-2063

Pikes experienced one of its coolest and longest vintages in Polish Hill River in the past 20 years in 2023, and its flagship riesling carries all the energy, tension and enduring longevity that the season promises. High-tensile cut of lemon, lime and salted granny smith apple is set with brittle acidity that demands at least a decade before approaching.

Pikes Olga Emmie Clare Valley Riesling 2023

$27 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 9% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2024-2053

The cool, late 2023 harvest in Polish Hill River was perfectly suited to the off-dry style of Olga Emmie, setting a thrilling contrast between the tension of high acidity and the texture of 47g/L of residual sugar. Pristine apple, lemon and lime fruit sets impressive concentration and drive, delightful from the outset, while confidently possessing an eternity of potential.

Eden Hall Wines Springton Riesling 2023

$28 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 11.8% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2024-2033

Eden Hall Vineyard. Single Vineyard. Blend of fruit from two separate blocks on the same property. Stainless-steel ferment and bottled early to retain freshness.

From two blocks in a single vineyard, a fragrant lily blossom bouquet declares the elegance of Springton, heralding impressive purity of granny smith apple and kaffir lime fruit. It exemplifies a season that captures both concentration and enduring tension. Delightful now, and it will age confidently for a decade.

Henschke Peggy’s Hill Eden Valley Riesling 2024

$28 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 11.5% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2024-2029

A mild summer and warm and dry autumn have given birth to a Peggy’s Hill of gorgeous aromatics of pronounced lily fragrance and classic granny smith apple and lime profile. A richness to the palate hints at star fruit and kiwi fruit exoticism, with fine phenolic bite contributing structure to the finish.

Merriworth Estate Riesling 2023

$31 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2028-2038

From the estate quarry block at Tea Tree in the Coal River Valley, this is a riesling that confidently contrasts characterful exoticism with high tensile structure. It brims with fantastic concentration and complexity of orange blossom, kiwi fruit, apricot, quince, baked apple and exotic spice. Gentle residual sweetness is cut with tense Tasmanian acidity that will hold it steady for the long-term

Hatch Flaxman’s Eden Valley Riesling 2023

$32 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2024-2033

True to the 2023 season, there’s a subtle exoticism to Chris Hatcher’s inaugural eponymous riesling. From a single vineyard high in Flaxman’s Valley, it’s cut with purity of lime and lemon, fleshed out with the juicy spiciness of golden kiwi and kaffir lime. This makes it approachably fleshy from the outset, with the fine acid structure for the medium-term.

Knappstein Ackland Vineyard Watervale Riesling 2023

$35 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2024-2031

The concentration of 54-year-old vines contrasts the limestone structure of Watervale and the cool tension of 450-500m elevation in the classic 2023 harvest. This wet season has made for a notably fleshy and spicy Ackland, with kiwi fruit notes, while upholding its citrus crunch and natural acid line. This makes for a riesling especially versatile with Asian fusion cuisine.

Gibson Burkes Hill Eden Valley Riesling 2023

$39 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 10.6% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2024-2033

From the rocky Burkes Hill vineyard in the Eden Valley, this is a particularly elegant riesling for the 2023 harvest. A couple of degrees lower in alcohol than most, it expresses the tension of this grape in a crunchy kaffir lime and lemon profile, set off with good length and energetic acidity that promise medium-term potential.

Clonakilla Canberra District Riesling 2024

$40 | Canberra | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2024-2029

The signature of a beautiful vintage, contrasting the juicy exoticism of perfectly ripe fruit with the energy and zest of cool nights in Canberra. Frangipane fragrance, pink lady crunch, wild lemon tang and accents of spice carry a long finish, ready to delight from the outset.

Penfolds Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling 2023

$40 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2023-2028

2023 makes a grand statement for Bin 51, a season that captures the full depth of intensity and the grand expanse of exoticism of riesling, all the while delivering accentuated floral lift and a shard of pure freshness that proclaim a cool season. A core of lemon and lime is generously embellished with star fruit, golden kiwi, persimmon and fig. It closes out with both succulent body and taut acid line, projecting outstanding line and length in the presence of impressive concentration.

Seppelt Drumborg Vineyard Riesling 2023

$40 | Henty | Screw Cap | 11.5% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2033-2048

This is a release that contrasts the concentration of low-yielding vintage for old vines celebrating their 59th vintage with the razor-edge tension of cold Henty in a cool season and the exoticism of just the right touch of botrytis in this wet harvest. The result is captivating, and promises to be all the more enthralling just as soon as that acidity has had time to soften in the cellar.

St Hugo Eden Valley Riesling 2024

$40 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2025-2034

The aim here is for vibrancy, florals, purity and freshness, trying to differentiate from Steingarten with more fleshiness; flavoursome though not necessarily any riper. Looking for terpenes more aligned to St Hugo compared with the citrus style of Steingarten. And winemaking aligned to highlighting the aromatics. The sourcing is pretty consistent over the years. Roxton vineyard is a key here, and Buckfellas and young quarry.

There’s a flesh and intensity here that meet the brief for St Hugo, while upholding excellent lemon and grapefruit purity and zesty tension. There’s great complexity of spice and apple, with coiled intensity and drive. Great promise.

Knappstein Clare Valley Riesling 2023

$25 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

92 points | Drink 2024-2031

There is bountiful exoticism in the wet 2023 season in the Clare Valley, brimming with persimmon, apricot, frangipani and spice. This is beautifully contrasted with the natural acidity of this cool, late-ripening harvest, making for a riesling of immediate appeal and medium-term promise.

Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon

Shaw + Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2023

$36 | Adelaide Hills | Screw Cap

95 points | Drink 2023-2024

The purity and precision on display here is textbook Adelaide Hills sauvignon of wonderful harmony and deliciously fragrant allure. Wonderful lemon and lime with lily blossom lift, green apple crunch and electric acid purity. It holds outstanding line and length, crystalline-pure and delightful.

Flametree S.R.S. Karridale Sauvignon Blanc 2022

$40 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024-2032

The cool tension of southern Margaret River sauvignon is beautifully polished by wild fermentation partially in French oak barrels. The result unites crunchy tension of citrus and blackcurrant bud with a wonderfully focused poise, vibrant energy and seamless persistence that strike a rare synergy between immediate allure and enduring potential.

Domaine A Lady A Sauvignon Blanc 2020

$75 | Tasmania | Cork | 14.3% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2030-2045

A ‘slight decrease’ in new oak from the usual 100% regime was an astute play in this warm vintage. The result captures all the exoticism of sauvignon with the tension and lemon freshness of southern Tasmania and a full measure of the creamy texture and biscuity, nutty, buttery complexity of new barrel fermentation. As idiosyncratic, enduring and delightful as ever. First bottle was corky.

Brokenwood Semillon 2023

$30 | Hunter Valley | Screw Cap

94 points | Drink 2023-2038

The purity of fresh young semillon is electric and this is a vintage cut with fireworks of lemon and lime that carry a long finish of purity, intensity and driving acidity. It’s delightful for summertime drinking from the start and will go a long time. Delicious sem.

De Iuliis Aged Semillon 2017

$38 | Hunter Valley | Screw Cap

93 points | Drink 2027-2047

Wonderfully coiled, backward, tense and primary even at six years of age. Beautiful acid cut and lingering presence of pure citrus fruit with but the faintest nuances of almon meal hinting at bottle age. Decades of potential.

Allandale Semillon 2023

$19 | Hunter Valley | Cork

92 points | Drink 2023-2038

Fresh, zesty pure and refreshing, this is a great value Hunter semillon of purity, driven by lemon and lime, backed with just the right touches of spice and lemon drops. Good length and zesty acidity make it delicious from the outset, with a long and linear finish.

Hesketh Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2023

$25 | Adelaide Hills | Screw Cap | 11.5% alcohol

92 points | Drink 2024-2025

A cool elegance reflects the mild 2023 season at 400m of altitude in the Adelaide Hills, defining a style that captures precise varietal anecdotes in blackcurrant bud and passionfruit, set to a refreshingly tangy backbone of lemon and lime. Plucked at the perfect instant of ripeness, it concludes in a long tail of lively acidity and graceful flow that make for a sauvignon of class and distinction.

Deep Woods Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2023

$27.99 | Margaret River | Screw Cap

92 points | Drink 2024-2028

A nicely poised sauvignon of restraint and energy, with blackcurrant bud, grapefruit and subtle passionfruit accents, with notes of preserved lemon. It’s graced with a long and even finish of well-focused acidity.

De Iuliis Semillon 2021

$23 | Hunter Valley | Screw Cap

91 points | Drink 2023-2031

The freshness of lemon and beurre bosc pear is evolving with 2.5 years of maturity to assume nuances of toast, butter, honey and spice, smoothing the palate yet upholding beautiful natural acid line on a long finish. Impressive value and polish.

Chardonnay

Paringa Estate The Paringa Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

$80 | Mornington Peninsula | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2027-2037

From a low-yielding vintage and just nine rows of vines now more than 30 years of age, this miniscule production that proclaims the enduring greatness of which the Mornington Peninsula is capable in a cool season. Pinpoint ripeness highlights exact white peach and grapefruit. Tightly coiled and impeccably structured even after full malolactic fermentation and a full four years of maturation, this is a chardonnay of crystalline texture and long-term potential. A worthy joint winner of my Chardonnay of the Year.

Xanadu Stevens Road Chardonnay 2022

$100 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2027-2042

There is power and concentration here thar reflects a warm and low-yielding season, yet the tension and energy upheld here through blocking malolactic fermentation is magnificent! The result is a Stevens Road that sets an impressive juxtaposition between the white peach, fig, grapefruit and ginger depth of Gingin clone chardonnay, the creamy texture of classy French oak, and the scintillating, salivating drive of malic acidity. I love it! A worthy joint winner of my Chardonnay of the Year.

Pooley Elizabeth Anne Chardonnay 2022

$140 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2024-2042

A new star has arisen in the firmament of Tasmanian chardonnay, and I was privileged to be the first to taste it. This is the essence of the legendary Cooinda Vale Vineyard, delivering intensity with tremendous energy, embodying an aspiration to capture its purity without the distraction of new oak. A press cut of just 500L per tonne has produced just 40 dozen bottles. Its precision is breathtaking, its crystalline minerality emphatically pure, its persistence profound and its longevity enduring. I have long revered Cooinda Vale chardonnay, and this is its ultimate expression yet, an instant addition to the ranks of Tasmania’s – and Australia’s – greatest chardonnays, making it a worthy joint winner of my Chardonnay of the Year.

Xanadu Reserve Chardonnay 2022

$125 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2027-2037

The power and presence of the Gingin clone in the Lagan Estate vineyard is on grand display in this warm and low-yielding season, making for a reserve of strength and structure. Full malic acidity plays an important role in energising a long and beautifully structured finish, eloquently supported by just 24% new French oak. Another grand and enduring Reserve.

Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2023

$140 | Tasmania | Screw Cap

96 points | Drink 2043-2053

The tension and focus of Tasmania are well captured in an Eileen of precision and endurance. White peach and fig are beautifully focused with a crystalline flow of lemon/grapefruit acidity, carrying a finish of magnificent line and fantastic length, setting a future for decades to come.

Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2022

$220 | South-Eastern Australia | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2032-2037

61% Tumbarumba, 26% Tasmania, 13% Adelaide Hills; matured 8 months in 44% new French oak barriques. ‘Tumbarumba has really come of age and its consistently producing some of our best chardonnay now. We have two growers who are producing stunning fruit year on year.’ – Kim Schroeter

One of the best of recent vintages in Tumbarumba has elevated this to the majority composition of Yattarna and the highest proportion of the blend yet. I love its tension and focus, eminently coiled, backward and crunchy even at more than three years of age. Almost ripe fig, white peach and beurre bosc pear are the themes, well framed in the creamy demeanour and supple texture of eminently supportive French oak fermentation. There is an impressive core of fruit presence, tensioned with fully ripe yet impressively energetic acid line that carries a long and enduring finish. Yattarna represents the only significant price jump in this year’s Penfolds release, leaping more than 25%, from $175 to $220.

Battles Burnside Margaret River Chardonnay 2023

$50 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024-2033

An exciting newcomer to the hallowed halls of Margaret River chardonnay in tiny production volume, striking just the right juxtaposition between reductive flintiness and pitch-perfect grapefruit and white peach fruit, propelled by understated, high class French oak. Partial retention of malic acidity provides focus and tension to a long, crystalline finish that will confidently sustain it for the medium-term.

Flametree S.R.S. Wallcliffe Chardonnay 2022

$75 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2026-2032

Single vineyard; wild fermented and matured 10 months in 40% new, large format oak

I love the synergy here between concentration, tension and texture. This is a chardonnay that expresses the magnitude of clone, region and season, intricately set off with just the right level of classy French oak, the energy of malic acidity and the texture of wild fermentation. It holds impressive confidence and persistence, and will blossom with a few years in bottle.

Ashton Hills Reserve Chardonnay 2022

$80 | Adelaide Hills | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2026-2032

And exceptional union of two vineyards in the Piccadilly Valley, to the tune of just 240 dozen. The energy and bright lemon and grapefruit energy of this cool season creates a beautiful display of crystalline tension, beautifully massaged by the creamy texture of wild fermentation and maturation in classy French oak and enticing wisps of struck flint reduction. It holds outstanding line and length, delightful now and with a long future before it. One of the greats from Ashton Hills.

Grosset Piccadilly Chardonnay 2022

$80 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 13.7% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2027-2035

I love the way Grosset has united the concentration and magnitude of a low-yielding season with the tension of a cooler vintage. Not an easy balancing act in which to uphold pretty floral aromas and intricately integrated French oak. The result is as seamless, crystalline and enticing as ever, charged with all the energy and confidence that hold exciting expectation for a long and distinguished future.

Oakridge 864 Drive Block Funder and Diamond Vineyard Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2021

$95 | Yarra Valley | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2026-2033

Dave Bicknell names this perhaps one of the best chardonnays he’s ever made. Time will tell, but there’s no question this cool season has infused an extra dimension of tension and endurance. There’s no lack of power here, delivering full grand cru fruit concentration of perfect ripeness, well framed in wild fermentation in French oak barrels.

Lowestoft La Meilleure Chardonnay 2021

$100 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024-2031

The best chardonnay was sourced from vineyards across the Coal Valley (45%), Tasman Peninsula (25%), East Coast (25%) and Tamar Valley (5%) in Tasmania. Wild fermented in seasoned French oak (300L + 500L). Following primary fermentation sulphur was added to half of the wine, with the remaining 50% stirred without sulphur for 3 months. The wine matured in oak for 9 months prior to blending and bottling. A small portion of the blend completed malolactic fermentation naturally.

Tasmanian chardonnay of distinction and grandeur, thanks to the advantage of agility in both sourcing and production techniques, drawing on the best regions across the state and the best of winemaking dexterity. The result delivers complexity and concentration yet succeeds in delivering the tricky balance of combining this with understated restraint, structural tension and enduring promise.

Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay 2022

$102 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2027-2037

There’s a captivating contrast at play here, in which the concentration of the Gingin clone in a warm summer juxtaposes the energy and cut of high natural acidity, even after full malolactic fermentation. Classic lemon, grapefruit and white peach even pushes so far as hints of fresh orange pulp. The struck flint reductive tension of Heytesbury elevates its brightness, surging long and strong through a finish perfectly polished with classy French oak (56% new).

Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay 2023

$105 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2026-2033

First planted for sparkling base, Tolpuddle Vineyard is a particularly cool place for still wines, and especially so in 2023, its coolest vintage on record. The team worked tirelessly through a wet spring and inconsistent grape development to achieve beautiful ripeness, concentration and tension without any hint of the racy austerity that this site can sometimes present. Lemon, lime and white peach fruit is beautifully presented in the creamy texture of high-class French oak, through a very long and enticing finish.

Penfolds Reserve Bin A Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2023

$125 | Adelaide Hills | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024-2033

Partial wild fermentation on solids with regular bâtonnage; full natural malolactic fermentation in 60% new French oak barriques.

The cool, wet and low-yielding 2023 season has built a Reserve Bin A with a core of spicy complexity and a crunchy demeanour. Grapefruit and beurre bosc pear are accented with pronounced ginger and textured with the creaminess of wild fermentation on solids with regular bâtonnage, full natural malolactic fermentation and the cashew nut complexity of high-class French oak. This is a season that contrasts the expansive generosity of low-yielding chardonnay with the tension of a cool, humid season, producing a style of deep-set complexity from the outset, making this an earlier-drinking Bin A of magnificent definition and presence, holding impressive line and length.

Xanadu Margaret River Chardonnay 2022

$40 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2030

Truly great chardonnay under $40 is increasingly rare and Xanadu is the finest of them all. The generosity of the Gingin clone has been well tempered in this warm season, with full malic acidity furnishing tension and poise. The bright definition of white peach, fig and grapefruit of estate Wallcliffe vineyards is beautifully expressed amidst the texture and complexity of wild fermentation in classy French oak. Masterfully executed.

Freycinet Estate Chardonnay 2023

$49.99 | Tasmania | Screw Cap

94 points | Drink 2033-2043

I love the lift, freshness and definition of this vintage on Tasmania’s east coast, elevating Freycinet Chardonnay to impressively energetic citrus and white peach. Cool Tasmanian acidity coasts through a long and enduring finish, making this a vintage for the long haul.

Paringa Estate Estate Chardonnay 2023

$50 | Mornington Peninsula | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2033

From Paringa’s 36th vintage, this is a blend of its estate vineyards in Red Hill South, an exemplar of the presence and confidence of Mornington Peninsula chardonnay, beautifully energised by the tension of the cool 2023 season. Concentration and depth of peach, grapefruit and fig are beautifully composed, supported in equal measure by lively, lingering acid drive and wonderfully textured French oak. One of the greats from Paringa.

Seville Estate Chardonnay 2021

$50 | Yarra Valley | Screw Cap | 0% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2026-2033

Always a benchmark of elegance purity and longevity, Seville Estate Chardonnay is in a stunning place in the cool 2021 season. Blocking of malolactic heightens tension in the cool Upper Yarra, but it holds impeccable poise thanks to perfectly ripe fruit and pristine French oak.

Dalrymple Estate Vineyard Pipers River Chardonnay 2021

$52 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2026-2031

Fermented and aged in a mix of new and older French oak puncheons and a 700L ceramic egg. Fortnightly bâtonnage. Full malolactic fermentation.

The cool and classic 2021 season in Piper’s River is beautifully articulated here in chardonnay that strikes a seamless balance between impeccable ripeness and tension. Classic white peach and lemon are the themes here, with just the right nuances of butter, biscuit and spice from fermentation, bâtonnage and malolactic fermentation in a mix of new and older french oak puncheons and a 700L ceramic egg. Outstanding persistence and medium-term potential.

Lowestoft Chardonnay 2022

$75 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2032

Lowestoft is a rapidly-rising star in the Tasmanian chardonnay firmament. Its estate release captures all the tension and exotic fruit concentration of a spectrum of sites across the north and south of the state, but what really sets it apart is its refined struck flint reductive distinction. Fine-boned, mineral structure, bright acidity and a fleshy fruit profile complete a long and alluring finish.

Vasse Felix DHJ1 Single Plot Chardonnay 2022

$75 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2027-2032

In the warm summer of 2022, the coolest site in Vasse Felix’s Wallcliffe vineyard upheld impressive restraint and energy. The purity of grapefruit, lemon and white peach are intricately framed in creamy vanillin oak, perfectly matched to young rather than new or old barrels. Outstanding persistence promises a long life in the cellar.

Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2023

$100 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2025-2028

A confident and powerful chardonnay for main course fare, uniting the full strength and body of Karridale in southern Margaret River with cashew nut French oak and all the texture and complexity of wild fermentation, bâtonnage and malolactic fermentation. It triumphs on a long and accurate finish of white peach, fig and grapefruit.

Yarra Yering Chardonnay 2022

$130 | Yarra Valley | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2027-2037

Sourced predominantly from the original Yarra Yering vines of 1969, this is a release that contrasts the concentration of Yarra Valley chardonnay with the tension of the mild, dry and low-yielding 2022 season. Grapefruit and lemon cut juxtaposes the flesh of white peach and fig, well enlivened by the cut of natural acidity. Classy cashew nut French oak builds a strong finish, which will relish some years to integrate and tone.

St Hugo Chardonnay 2022

$35 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap

93 points | Drink 2023-2028

The cool 2022 season has defined a tense and focused Eden Valley chardonnay that unites crunchy white peach and vibrant lemon/grapefruit with the seamless texture of barrel fermentation. An impeccably assembled wine with a medium-term future, and a standout for the region.

Ashton Hills Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay 2022

$40 | Adelaide Hills | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2024-2027

A cool season in the cool Piccadilly Valley defines an elegant Adelaide Hills chardonnay in which wild fermentation and large format French oak maturation have been applied sensitively to build texture more than flavour. White peach, fig and lemon are supported by spice, roast nuts and honey

Hoddles Creek Estate Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2023

$26 | Yarra Valley | Screw Cap | 13.2% alcohol

91 points | Drink 2024-2028

From the lowest-yielding vintage on record, this is a chardonnay that contrasts the crystalline purity of a cool season in the Upper Yarra with the creamy texture of well-handled barrel fermentation and glimpses of exoticism in ripe peach and fig. Such class is rarely found at this price.

Vasse Felix Filius Chardonnay 2023

$20 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 12.5% alcohol

90 points | Drink 2024-2025

A mild season of cool evening have built a particularly refined and elegant Filius of refreshing acid poise. Pure lemon, grapefruit and white peach are gently framed in the softly creamy texture of barrel maturation, with just the lightest touch of new oak all it calls for. Great value in a lively, fruity, young Margaret River chardonnay.

Other Whites

Yalumba The Virgilius Eden Valley Viognier 2022

$57 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2026-2034

It takes talent, experience and a cool season to achieve an intricate balance in Viognier between acid tension, phenolic grip, fruit flesh and creamy texture, and nobody in Australia achieves this like Yalumba. The 2022 Virgilius is set to go down as a benchmark exemplar, striking a delightful juxtaposition between silky texture, juicy fruit and dramatic phenolic/acid crunch. It ticks all the boxes of almost ripe apricot, peach kernel, fresh ginger and grapefruit, too. Could this be the greatest Australian viognier yet? Time shall tell! In the meantime, it’s a worthy winner of my Other White of the Year.

Torbreck The Steading Blanc 2022

$38 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2023-2027

62% roussanne in stainless steel tanks, 48% marsanne in seasoned barriques, 10% viognier in new oak

The cool 2022 season wonderfully agitates the tension of this Rhone blend, with a wonderfully crunchy pear and vibrant citrus lift to its core of apricot, and fig, basking in spice. It’s vibrant, long and fine-grained, with beautifully managed textural finesse. The interplay of acidity, flesh and subtle phenolic texture is next level, at once fine-grained and mineral, bright and tangy and yet also polished and slippery, setting this apart as the finest under this label yet.

Apogee Alto Pinot Gris 2023

$45 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2033

The long, cool ripening of 2023 infused Andrew Pirie’s Gris with the concentration and tension to effortlessly handle barrel fermentation, skin contact and malolactic fermentation. The characteristic crunch of pear, zing of lemon and depth of spice are upheld with confidence, carrying tremendous persistence and endurance. The acid/phenolic interplay here is strong yet impeccably gauged. Kudos, Pirie.

Grosset Apiana Fiano 2024

$55 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 12.7% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2029

I love the energising touch of the cool 2024 season on the presence and texture of fiano, creating a wonderful contrast between citrus zest and energy and the food-matching dexterity of supple texture and understated exoticism. Lemon and pear meet the slightest nuances of almost ripe passionfruit. The result is one of the most compelling fianos I’ve tasted.

Clonakilla Murrumbateman Viognier 2023

$60 | Canberra | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2033

Barrel fermented and aged a year on lees in 600L French demi-muids.

The third cool season in a row culminated in the latest harvest in more than a decade, furnishing ripening in slow-motion to create an exciting viognier. The crunch of cool acidity is beautifully melded with the creamy texture of a year on lees in demi-muids. Exciting varietal distinction is accented in almost ripe apricot and peach kernel. Classy and ageworthy.

Mayfield Estate Pinot Gris 2023

$38 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2025-2033

Benchmark gris. The crunch of pristine pear fruit lays a foundation of varietal precision, perfectly framed equally by tense Tasmanian acidity and the grip of perfectly tuned, fine-grained phenolic structure. Ripeness, richness texture and body make this definitive gris, with the lemon fresh purity and energetic acid drive to build serious spine, resolute integrity and enduring longevity.

Rosé

Warramate Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Rosé 2023

$38 | Yarra Valley | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2026

Stunning rosé in a sophisticated vibe that delivers rose petal fragrance, pink grapefruit tang, strawberry hull, white raspberry, watermelon and pink pepper associations. Tangy, crystalline, cool season, natural acidity is the theme here, rather than fruit or flesh, which is just as it should be.

Delamere Hurlo’s Rosé 2022

$80 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 12.9% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2029

This is very serious rosé, seamlessly uniting the energy of a cool season at the top of the Delamere vineyard, the fruit depth of old vine pinot noir, the texture of fermentation and 10 months maturation as cloudy juice in 50% new French oak barrels and the zing of partial malolactic fermentation. The result carries body, distinction and class rarely found in rosé and is absolutely deserving of its price – if you can manage to snare one of just 677 bottles.

Best’s Great Western Rosé 2023

$27 | Great Western | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2024-2025

The elegance of shiraz and a little pinot noir in Best’s Great Western vineyard is eminently suited to graceful rosé in the cool 2023 harvest. Refined strawberry, morello cherry and cranberry fruit carries impressively vibrant natural acidity, making for a lively and sophisticated rosé.

Camino Grenache Rosé 2023

$30 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 13.2% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2024-2026

From the 1912 Hemera vineyard in Lyndoch, this is an elegantly pale and dry rosé, finely textured by wild fermentation and six months maturation on full lees. I love its strawberry hull and pink grapefruit tang, its finely textured grip and its sophisticated, bone dry finish. Serious rosé.

Josef Chromy Rosé 2021

$35 | Tasmania | Screw Cap

93 points | Drink 2023-2026

100% pinot noir from Relbia, Northern Tasmania

The presence and complexity of Relbia pinot noir makes for a rose of intensity and appeal. Tangy strawberry hull, morello cherry and cranberry fruit carries a long finish. Vibrant acidity meets subtle, very fine phenolic grip that promise medium-term potential.

Turkey Flat Barossa Valley Rosé 2023

$25 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

92 points | Drink 2024

Turkey Flat’s beloved grenache rosé has taken on another layer of depth of spice, red berry fruit fresh and appeal in 2023. With a pretty medium salmon hue, it tones its juicy mood with gentle acidity and just the right level of fine phenolic crunch on the finish.

Mazi Mataro Cinsault Grenache Rosé 2022

$27 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap

92 points | Drink 2023-2025

There is real personality to this rosé, with fruit character, herbal/savoury complexity and well handled phenolic/tannin interplay. Impressive acid drive subtle saline McLaren Vale texture drive a long and full finish. Impressive food friendly rose.

Port Phillip Estate Salasso Rosé 2022

$29 | Mornington Peninsula | Screw Cap | 0% alcohol

92 points | Drink 2023-2024

The Salasso’s blend of shiraz and pinot noir works beautifully in the refreshingly cool 2022 vintage on the Mornington, with the pepper and spice of shiraz harmoniously supporting the red berry fruits of pinot noir. Tangy acidity and finely textured tannin grip bring structure and food-matching potential to the finish.

Brokenwood Rosato 2023

$30 | South-eastern Australia | Screw Cap | 12.7% alcohol

92 points | Drink 2023-2024

Sangiovese and Nebbiolo make for a fantastic foundation for rosé, with colour infused through overnight maceration following foot stomping. A touch of old oak fermentation brings subtle texture without interrupting its vibrant red berry tang and beautifully refreshing acid line.

Deep Woods Harmony Rosé 2023

$17.99 | Margaret River | Screw Cap

91 points | Drink 2024-2025

A vibrant and lively bargain rosé that unites tangy pink grapefruit with some compelling pomegranate character. Bright acidity energises a long, fresh and dry finish. Impressive value.

Longview Juno Nebbiolo Rosato 2023

$24.99 | Adelaide Hills | Screw Cap

91 points | Drink 2024-2025

A beautifully fresh take on Adelaide Hills nebbiolo, thanks to the cool 2023 season. Pink grapefruit, pomegranate, watermelon and strawberry hull are the themes, carried by beautifully poised, cool season acidity. Refreshing and pretty.

Innocent Bystander Rosé 2023

$20 | Victoria | Screw Cap | 0% alcohol

90 points | Drink 2024-2025

A tangy rosé of grapefruit and watermelon character, with accents of strawberry hull and morello cherries. Clean and nicely balanced, representing good value.

Pinot Noir

Lowestoft La Maison Pinot Noir 2022

$130 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2027-2042

Lowestoft Vineyard; old vines; matured in large-format oak.

Announcing the most sublime Australian pinot noir I have ever tasted and a worthy winner of my Pinot Noir of the Year. After I named the 2020 vintage Pinot Noir of the Year in the Halliday Wine Companion, if it wasn’t already clear that the old pinot noir vines of the Lowestoft vineyard are among the finest in the country, the 2023 Jimmy Watson Trophy for the 2022 certainly confirmed it. There is a resolute confidence to this site, intricately preserved by the genius of Liam McElhinney and his team. Deep, black fruit complexity, lifted violet and rose petal perfume, evocative exotic spice, velvet-fine tannins and brilliant natural acidity define a sensational finish and declare quintessential pinot noir of the highest order.

Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023

$105 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2028-2038

There’s an integrity and a deliciousness here that transcend the coolest season on record in this cool site, testimony to fanatical viticulture and sensitive winemaking that have achieved impeccable ripeness and seamless coherence. Whole bunch fermentation has been sensibly reined in, providing fragrant exoticism and herbal complexity, while maintaining beautifully polished, suede-like tannin texture. Bright natural acidity draws out a long finish and enduring potential.

Pooley Oronsay Butcher’s Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021

$145 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2031-2046

100% whole bunches. Matured 14 months in 40% new French oak barrels.

It is testimony to both the confidence of these now 20-year-old vines and to the masterful talent of the Pooleys that this vintage can not only effortlessly take 100% whole bunch fermentation in its stride but use this to heighten vineyard and varietal distinctiveness in aroma, flavour and texture. The result is one of the finest wines to ever emerge from this site, uniting pristine, vibrant fruit with brilliantly polished yet eminently enduring structure that marries cool season acidity with wonderfully fine tannins.

Pooley Jack Denis Pooley Pinot Noir 2021

$195 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13.2% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2031-2046

The best parcels of Cooinda Vale Vineyard; no whole bunches; matured 14 months in 40% new French oak barrels.

Jack Denis Pooley is an exemplar for the rise and rise of Pooley estate over the past decade, and most of all the past five years, but it will be many years in the cellar yet before the full extent of its greatness is finally revealed. I love the way it effortlessly juxtaposes the delicate poise of this cool season with the characterful presence of the inimitable Cooinda Vale Vineyard and the enduring tension of a finely interwoven mesh of super-fine tannins and vibrant acidity.

Devil’s Corner Mt Amos Pinot Noir 2018

$80 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 0% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2023-2033

Hazards vineyard (east coast). Clones D4V2, MV6 & 115. 115 was full carbonic maceration ferment. 29% whole bunches. Cold soaked and plunged twice daily until ferment. Hand plunged in open top fermenters. Pump overs up to 4 times per day

A pinot noir of grace and eloquence, with a core of purity of red cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruit. The palate shape is at once silky and supple and at the same time beautifully structured with super fine-grained, mineral tannins that are at once alluring from the outset and yet promise great potential. Profound length and mesmerising grace.

Pooley Cooinda Vale Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022

$90 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13.1% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2030-2042

10% whole bunches. Matured 10 months in 30% new French oak barrels.

I love the brightness and elegance of pinot noir in cool and humid seasons, and this serves to elevate the grace and charm of the wonderful Cooinda Vale Vineyard. Delicate rose petal and cherry blossom aromas herald a palate of vibrant morello cherry and perfectly ripe strawberry fruit. The acid tension of southern Tasmania is heightened in this cool season, entwining seamlessly with fine-boned tannin texture that draws out a long finish of enduring promise.

Yarra Yering Light Dry Red Pinot Shiraz 2023

$95 | Yarra Valley | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024-2033

An equal blend of pinot noir and shiraz with some whole bunch inclusion, but this is a wine emphatically more about the result than it is the method, transcending both varieties to a place of exciting rose petal lift, pepper spice and tangy red and black fruits of enticing allure. Super-fine, mineral tannins embrace the vibrant acid line of this cool season to complete a thrilling finish. It’s intended for early drinking but there’s absolutely no doubt it’s going places, too!

Lowestoft Single Vineyard Glengarry Pinot Noir 2022

$100 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2032-2047

Lowestoft captures a very different mood in Glengarry north-west of Launceston than it does in its home vineyard in the Derwent Valley, expressing the cool and humid 2022 vintage with a vibrant, tangy and elegant mood of morello cherries, wild strawberries and rose petal lift. I love the way it’s driven by cool acidity, marrying with beautifully fine tannins to define a streamlined and perfectly polished fuselage of long-distance endurance of Burgundian proportions.

Lowestoft Single Vineyard Jacoben Pinot Noir 2022

$100 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2032-2047

I love the elegant restraint of this cool, humid season, and this single vineyard in the lower Derwent Valley exemplifies its mood with tension and endurance. This is pinot noir scaffolded for the long-haul, with an intricately engineered framework of super-fine tannins supported with all the structure of impeccably poised natural acidity. I love this dynamic, setting a longevity much more Burgundian than it is Tasmanian. Serious stuff.

Paringa Estate The Paringa Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022

$100 | Mornington Peninsula | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2027-2037

From two blocks of vines of almost 40 years of age on Paringa’s home vineyard, this north-facing amphitheatre has relished in the cool 2022 season. The result is a flagship that captures floral fragrance heightened eloquently by partial whole bunch fermentation, over a core of deep, spice-laden black and red berry/cherry/plum fruit and a beautiful splay of fine-grained, drying tannins. It upholds outstanding persistence and potential.

Delamere Block 8 Pinot Noir 2022

$135 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2027-2037

From one of the oldest blocks of the now 40-year-old Delamere vineyard, the cool and challenging 2022 vintage has delivered one of the greatest expressions of pinot noir from Piper’s River. The elegant Turkish Delight and rose petal signature of the district is brilliantly juxtaposed with red cherry fruit depth, structured, with intricate, fine-grained tannins. Whole bunches (30%) lift spicy aromatics and new oak (50%) draws out a long finish, both perfectly harmonised. These 600 bottles are well worth the hunt!

Bream Creek Estate Pinot Noir 2023

$47 | Tasmania | Screw Cap

94 points | Drink 2026-2038

This cool site in the south of Tasmania’s east coast has risen to the 2023 season, capturing the depth of mature vine pinot noir with impressive character and presence. Black and red cherry fruit depth is well lifted by eloquent violet fragrance, held sure by well-integrated natural acidity and well-composed, fine-grained tannins. Great persistence. Impressive.

Clarence House Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 2022

$50 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2027-2034

Wild fermented with a small proportion of whole bunches. Aged in new and old French oak barriques and puncheons.

Anna Pooley and Justin Bubb have elevated this unique terroir midway between Hobart and the Coal Valley to a wonderful place of fragrant exoticism, vibrant fruit purity and fine-boned structure. Pure dark berry and red cherry fruit is fragranced with rose petal lift and the potpourri exoticism of intricately deployed whole bunch fermentation. Tannins of such fine-grained structure yet confident endurance promise great potential in the cellar.

Penfolds Bin 23 Pinot Noir 2022

$50 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2025-2032

Matured in 35% new French oak barriques

Juicy, fruity and friendly, this is a Bin 23 that revels in layers of fresh strawberries and raspberries, beautifully enlivened with the bright acidity of 2022 and set to an impeccable mesh of super-fine tannins. This is a label that is increasingly distancing itself from the Penfolds red winemaking stereotype as it more articulately captures the compelling voice of Tasmanian pinot. A noble evolution indeed!

Dalrymple Pipers River Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022

$70 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2027-2042

Dalrymple’s home vineyard in Piper’s River is protected from cool northerly winds, making it idea for pinot noir in this cool zone. 2022 produced a particularly graceful style of tangy berry and cherry fruits. Vibrant natural acidity and beautifully handle, mineral-fine tannins unite seamlessly to build confidence and longevity.

Lowestoft Pinot Noir 2022

$75 | Tasmania | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2027-2037

The distinguished Lowestoft vineyard of old Derwent Valley vines takes the lead in this blend, setting a magnificent core of enticing fruit purity. Delightfully exact red cherries, strawberries and raspberries are subtly lifted by the exoticism of (presumably) a touch of whole bunch fermentation. Vibrant, cool season acidity contrasts juicy fruit succulence, laced together with supple, fine grained tannins. Grand potential.

Devil’s Corner Mt Dove Pinot Noir Syrah 2021

$80 | Tasmania | Screw Cap

94 points | Drink 2026-2036

70% Hazards (East Coast) pinot noir and 30% Derwent Valley syrah. Selective harvester and hand picked whole bunches. Four tonne open fermenters. Cold Soak 4-5 days. Syrah fermented with whole berries. Pinot noir fermented with 24% whole bunches.

The union of East Coast pinot noir with Derwent Valley shiraz may be unexpected, but works to compelling effect, resting confidently on a core of red cherry and blackberry fruit and accented enticingly with the black pepper and spice of cool climate shiraz. Supple, fine-grained tannins coalesce on a long finish. Masterful blending at its finest.

Oakridge 864 Aquaduct Block Henk Vineyard Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2022

$95 | Yarra Valley | Screw Cap | 13.3% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2026-2034

Dave Bicknell has played this wine sensitively, upholding the elegance of this cool season in Woori Yallock in a medium-bodied core of strawberry and red cherry, with carefully executed whole bunch fermentation to heighten floral and herbal complexity. Bright natural acidity and finely executed tannins assure both immediate glory and enduring potential.

Yarra Yering Pinot Noir 2022

$130 | Yarra Valley | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2030-2037

Pinot noir relishes the cooler seasons in the Yarra and these 1969 and 1980s vines have risen to the low-yielding 2022 season. Sarah Crowe has worked her magic in creating a seamless accord between elegant dark berry fruits, beautifully supportive French oak and the understated, subtly exotic spice overtones of perfectly gauged whole bunch inclusion. It will live long and strong.

Paringa Estate Peninsula Pinot Noir 2023

$36 | Mornington Peninsula | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2024-2031

This is the quintessential Mornington Pinot noir, capturing a blend of sites across the peninsula with the detail, grace and fragrant lift of a cool season. Depth of juicy, regional dark berry fruits contrasts the cool vintage tang of morello cherries and the lift of rose hip, bouquet garni and black pepper. Fine tannins carry a finish of dark fruit strength, promising medium-term endurance.

Hoddles Creek Estate Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2023

$26 | Yarra Valley | Screw Cap | 13.2% alcohol

92 points | Drink 2024-2028

Hoddles Creek has achieved the holy grail of consistently impressive, affordable pinot noir. The cool 2023 season in the Upper Yarra has blessed it with purity of wild strawberry, raspberry and cranberry fruit that strikes a delicious balance between juicy and tangy, subtly accented with white pepper and herbs, completed with impeccable, fine tannins. Vintage-in, vintage-out, is there a finer pinot noir for this price anywhere on earth?

Wickhams Road Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2023

$20 | Yarra Valley | Screw Cap | 13.2% alcohol

90 points | Drink 2024-2025

With new plantings coming on stream, this is the first time Wickhams Road is sourced largely from Hoddles Creek, and it shows! Classic cool climate pinot like never before under $20! Beautiful berry/cherry fruit, vibrant acidity and fine, silky tannins. It deserves to be everyone’s midweek house pinot!

Grenache

Thistledown Fool on the Hill Grenache 2022

$95 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap

96 points | Drink 2027-2042

An exciting newcomer for Thistledown, uniting two plots of relatively young bush vines planted by Joel Mattschoss in tough soils at 550 elevation in the Eden Valley, making this one of the highest grenache vineyards in the country. It was treated with the utmost sensitivity, fermented in concrete egg with 20% whole bunches and matured in seasoned French oak puncheons. In the mild 2022 season, it captures grenache’s cooler side in a sophisticated style that seamlessly unites varietal distinction with whole bunch exoticism. Pure, crunchy red berry fruit and dried herb and rhubarb complexity culminate in a spectacular fanfare of super-fine, confident tannins that will hold it sure for the long-haul. Benchmark. Just 1800 bottles. A worthy joint winner of my Grenache of the Year.

Torbreck Les Amis 2021

$200 | Barossa | Cork

96 points | Drink 2024-2031

A grenache of profound complexity and depth, capturing the presence of deep-set fruit in a rich kaleidoscope of black and red fruits, underlined with liquorice and dark chocolate. A fine-woven web of tannins lace seamlessly with this fruit, carrying a finish of profound line and length. A dramatic Les Amis that stands tall among the finest to date and a worthy joint winner of my Grenache of the Year.

Turkey Flat Vineyards Grenache 2022

$45 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2025-2032

I have long loved Turkey Flat Grenache, a benchmark of Barossa grenache since long before it became trendy, standing out as a distinctive and definitive style. The beautiful 2022 harvest harks back to the great vintages of the 1990s. Sourced largely from the gnarled vines planted over 100 years ago on Bethany Road, this is textbook, medium bodied Barossa grenache with all the evocative hallmarks of rhubarb, raspberries, wild strawberries, rose hip and just the right amount of dried herbs, laced together wine wonderfully mineral tannins.

St Hugo Barossa Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2023

$50 | Barossa | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2033-2043

64.3% grenache 29.8% shiraz 5.7% mataro

This is serious GSM for the long-haul, crafted with all the fine-tuned engineering of the Jacob’s Creek red winemaking team. Two-thirds grenache provides the raspberry and wild strawberry core, while almost one-third shiraz lends a dense core of black cherry and satsuma plum, with a dash of mataro bringing depth to its firm, fine tannin profile. High class oak rises to the challenge, confirming its endurance.

Penfolds Bin 21 Barossa Valley Grenache 2022

$60 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2023-2032

Sourced from vines dating as far back as the 1930s; made like pinot noir, fermented with a small proportion of whole bunches; matured in 6% new French oak barrels

‘A bit like Bin 23 Pinot Noir, our new Bin 21 is an extension of our Cellar Reserve program. I’m still pouring our inaugural Cellar Reserve Grenache 2002 all the time around the world! A straight grenache was an obvious addition to our core range. I love what this variety can do with perfume and florals! Grenache is the new pinot noir and we’ve aligned this wine more with Bin 23 than we have with Bin 138. The blend of Bin 138 varies every year and I’ve always preferred it when it’s grenache predominant. We make Bin 21 like we would make a pinot. It’s a project of Winemaker Shavaughn Wells and viticulturist and grower liaison manager Justin Willoughby. We have more access to better grenache vineyards now. There was once a time when we were sourcing almost only from Seppeltsfield, but we have added lots of growers now. This gives us the opportunity to cherry pick the many vineyards from which we source across the Barossa. And in our ongoing program of replanting, Covid and the crash in the Chinese market provided opportunity for us to replant sections of the Kalimna vineyard to grenache, to supplement our other vineyards and growers into the future. – Peter Gago

Capturing all of the fruit flamboyance of grenache and marrying it seamlessly to the signature confidence of Penfolds tannin structure is no easy task in the absence of the support of shiraz, mataro and any meaningful level of new oak, and this is not only a decent first attempt, it’s a downright outstanding Barossa grenache. Alluring fruit purity with the bright radiance of the great 2022 season meets masterfully executed, super fine-grained tannins that carry a long and linear finish. A worthy newcomer to the distinguished Penfolds lineage.

Yalumba The Tri-Centenary Barossa Grenache 2022

$70 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2027-2037

These old vines have relished the cool 2022 season, giving birth to a grenache of particular elegance, exceptional harmony and eloquent grace. Pretty red fruits are underscored by rhubarb and rosé hip, at once juicy yet focused by intricately structured tannins that carry a long finish. Another great vintage for Tri-Centenary.

Wirra Wirra The Absconder McLaren Vale Grenache 2022

$75 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2027-2037

Grenache in all its glory, there’s a refinement and poise to the fruits of these 1920s vines in the cool 2022 season, uniting the wonderful rose petal fragrance and raspberry freshness of grenache with the depth of blackberries and black olives that declare its place in McLaren Vale, with a hint of cool vintage peppermint. The result is at once detailed, dense and confidently structured with firm, enduring tannins – a difficult balance rarely achieved with grenache flying solo.

Chapel Hill The MV Bush Vine McLaren Vale Grenache 2022

$33 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2025-2032

There’s a compelling contrast here between the juicy strawberries, raspberries and rhubarb that typify grenache, the eloquently herbal complexity of a cool season and the fine-grained tannin confidence that infuses Chapel Hill with integrity and endurance. A great vintage for this label!

The Willows Vineyard G Seven Grenache 2023

$36 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.2% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2033

Single vineyard Light Pass, 1969 planted, dry grown, deep sand soil. Hand picked, open fermenters. Portions of whole bunch, carbonic maceration and traditional destemmed. Into 3rd and 4th filled French oak Demi-muids for 10 months.

These 1969 vines in Light Pass have sensitively tended by the Scholz family, and the elegant definition of their fruits well preserved in old demi-muids. I love the resulting brightness of its red fruits, finely textured tannins and gentle spicy allure. A grenache of grace and class. Good value, too.

Teusner Joshua Grenache Mataro Shiraz 2023

$37 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2033

56% grenache, 37% mataro, 7% shiraz

Joshua has become the benchmark of unoaked Barossa GMS, and I love the way the cool 2023 season lifts its fragrance, spice and tang. 37% mataro is a strong inclusion, and it holds it impeccably, presenting the fine, confident tannin structure to stand strong in the absence of oak. A core of elegant, cool season red and black berry fruits carry a long finish. All class.

Torbreck The Steading 2021

$38 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 15% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2023-2029

51% grenache, 28% shiraz, 21% mataro

The density and richness that is Torbreck are in a wonderful place in the vibrancy, lift and natural acid brightness of the cool 2021 harvest, making for a fantastic Steading. It’s filled with deep, dark, spicy black fruits of all kinds, set to a fine-grained tannin structure that captures Ian Hongell’s rising talent with building magnificent texture. A brilliant Steading and fantastic value.

Grant Burge The Holy Trinity Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre 2021

$49 | Barossa | Screw Cap

94 points | Drink 2026-2031

I love the coiled restraint of the cool 2021 season in the Barossa, blessing The Holy Trinity with lift, brightness and endurance. Dark and red berry fruits of all kinds are beautifully harmonised with finely structured tannins and lingering acid line. Seamless and crafted.

Schwarz Wine Company Thiele Road Single Vineyard Grenache 2023

$50 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.2% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2026-2033

Planted in Bethany in 1941, just 2080 bottles express all the character of old vine Barossa grenache. I love the elegance of the cool 2023 season, and this is captured eloquently here in graceful raspberry and strawberry fruit, nuanced with rhubarb and laced together with beautifully fine-grained tannins. Just the right amount of whole bunches (30%) lift its fragrance, spice and structure.

Penfolds Bin 138 Barossa Valley Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2022

$60 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2027-2037

47% grenache, 43% shiraz, 10% mataro; matured 10 months in 21% new and 69% seasoned French and 10% seasoned American oak hogsheads

There’s a wonderful integration and effortless, fine-boned integrity to this blend in the excellent, cool 2022 season. The supple red fruits of grenache are intricately woven with the black fruit depth of shiraz and the savoury mood and fine-grained tannin structure of mataro. Outstanding fruit purity and enduring longevity set apart another great Bin 138.

Torbreck Hillside Vineyard Grenache 2021

$80 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 15% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2023-2031

‘10% whole bunch. We are aiming for a textural style without too much whole bunch, but just a little to frame the sides of the wine without interrupting flow. We are working at refining whole bunch since using a little for the first time in 2020.‘ – Ian Hongell

A stunning Hillside that captures the freshness of grenache in all of its red-fruited glory, overlaid with floral lift and spicy complexity accentuated in the cool 2021 season, all presented in the glossy density that sets the Torbreck style. The result is at once sweet-fruited and finely textured, thanks to beautifully textured tannins. One of the finest Hillside Grenaches yet.

Charles Melton Nine Popes GSM 2021

$105 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2031-2036

The Barossa’s most famous GSM taps the full depth and complexity of almost century old bush vine grenache (53%) with the black fruit structure of shiraz and just 4% mataro, confidently framed in more than two years’ maturation in French oak barriques. Layers of berry fruits and spice are well scaffolded in finely structured tannins that will hold it strong in the cellar. The wonderfully cool 2021 season infuses a lingering brightness to a long finish.

Corryton Burge Barossa Grenache 2022

$28 | Barossa | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2027-2037

The cool 2022 season lifts the rose hip fragrance and the tangy brightness of grenache. Fine-grained tannins and energetic acidity make for an ageworthy style that presents spicy black and red berry fruit with even harmony and good persistence. Oak is well married to highlight classy fruit.

Torbreck Cuvée Juveniles 2022

$28 | Barossa | Screw Cap

93 points | Drink 2024-2027

Grenache (45%), mataro (36%), carignan (17%) and counoise (2%) sourced from multiple vineyards up to 150 years old have been married here with the polished mastery of Ian Hongell, making for a seamless and intricately harmonious blend. True to aspiration, this is a vibrant, juicy, fruity, easy-drinking Barossa blend that captures the brightness and detail of the cool 2022 season and marries it seamlessly with glossy, spicy fruit ripeness. The result is one of the most stylish Juveniles to date.

Wirra Wirra Farmer’s Heart Grenache 2023

$29 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap

93 points | Drink 2024-2029

A delightful and bright grenache that captures the mood of this cool season in tangy raspberry fruits accented with all of grenache’s hallmark distinctiveness in rhubarb and dried herbs. Fine, saline tannins characterise McLaren Vale. Classy.

Yalumba Vat 11 Dry Grown Barossa Valley Grenache 2023

$40 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2025-2033

From a single vineyard of 1965 Marananga vines, this new small batch release from Yalumba captures the fragrant elegance of this cool season in the Barossa. I love the detail of its lifted rose petal perfume, its purity of raspberry and strawberry fruit, and most of all the way its refreshing acidity melds seamlessly with magnificent, fine-grained, mineral tannins that draw out a finish of elegantly graceful persistence. And exciting newcomer to Yalumba’s growing grenache arsenal.

Turkey Flat Vineyards Butchers Block Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2021

$25 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.4% alcohol

92 points | Drink 2024-2028

The rule of buying the entry labels in the great vintages holds firm here. My favourite season in the Barossa in decades has delivered grenache of fragrant, fine-boned elegance, and it’s impeccably supported by beautifully structured shiraz and mataro. Crunchy red and black berries glide over a beautifully refined tannin profile. Such class rarely comes at this price.

Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache 2022

$28 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

92 points | Drink 2024-2027

Yalumba’s Barossa floor grenache blend appreciates the cooler seasons, and 2022 has drawn out a particularly refined, elegant and fragrant rendition. Strawberries, raspberries and rhubarb capture the integrity of the variety, beautifully framed in fine-grained, mineral tannins that transcend its bargain price. Refreshing, bright acidity carries a long finish. One of the best ever.

d’Arenberg Custodian Grenache 2020

$25 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap

91 points | Drink 2025-2035

A dark-fruited McLaren Vale grenache that unites blackberries, mulberries and satsuma plums, well supported by firm, fine-grained tannins and impressively bright acidity for the warm 2020 season. Great value.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

$175 | Coonawarra | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

98 points | Drink 2031-2051

The complexity, concentration and structural harmony that can only come from long, slow ripening in a cool season are something to behold, and John Riddoch exemplifies this like no other cabernet. This is textbook Coonawarra of the highest order, pinpoint in its varietal definition, striking a balance between power and long-enduring structural confidence of limestone-mineral tannins like only the greatest vintages can achieve. A worthy winner of my Cabernet Sauvignon of the Year.

Chapel Hill Gorge Block McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

$70 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2041-2051

Cabernet loves McLaren Vale’s cooler seasons, and Chapel Hill’s most exposed block, planted in 1993, has produced one of the greatest wines to ever emerge from this estate in the benchmark 2021 vintage. Varietal and regional definition are pinpoint, setting an exact stance of blackcurrant and cassis, black olive, liquorice, bay, iodine, high cocoa dark chocolate, cedar and tobacco leaf. Graphite-fine tannins are set off by high class, pencil lead French oak that carries a brilliant finish. High-strung tension, deep complexity and high-gloss polish promise grand longevity. Kudos.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Messenger Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

$80 | Coonawarra | Screw Cap | 13.8% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2026-2041

In the cool south of Coonawarra, the Messenger Vineyard typically shines in warmer years (hence bottlings as a single vineyard in 2005, 2010 and 2015), but the cool 2021 season has unexpectedly put forth by far the greatest yet. Pristine, crunchy black- and redcurrant fruit, lifted violet fragrance, cassis intensity and super fine limestone tannins confirm its pedigree, but it’s a 60-second finish of undeviating line that takes it to a level never before achieved by Wynn’s single vineyards.

Flametree S.R.S. Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

$85 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2035-2045

Benchmark Margaret River cabernet of presence and enduring framework. Brilliant definition of blackcurrant and cassis fruit, intricately framed in high class French oak (45% new for 16 months). The result is at once crunchy and bright, yet deep and powerful. Fine-grained high cocoa dark chocolate tannins are infused with tremendous potential.

Grosset Gaia 2022

$108 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2042-2062

85% cabernet sauvignon, 15% cabernet franc

This exposed and extreme site in the upper reaches of the Clare is characterised by cabernet of concentration, varietal precision, structural confidence and grand longevity, and the cool 2022 season has only served to amplify all four dimensions. The depth and definition of crunchy blackcurrant and cassis fruit is monumental, and it is blessed with all the mineral-fine tannin, vibrant acidity and profound persistence to endure exceedingly long indeed. The essence of cabernet, and of Gaia!

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

$150 | Margaret River | Screw Cap

97 points | Drink 2031-2051

A singularity of black- and redcurrant and cassis defines a monumental Moss Wood of stellar definition and endurance, yet somehow at the same time alluringly silky, slippery and polished to the nth degree. Super-fine tannins unite top shelf fruit with classy oak structure, impeccably resolved, carrying a finish of effortless line and length.

Howard Park Abercrombie Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

$155 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2042-2062

Now predominantly the prized Block 29 of 1996 vines in the Leston Vineyard, this is a distinguished Margaret River cabernet of towering stature and enduring potential. Pinpoint accurate varietal and regional detail is expressed in blackcurrant fruit, accented with cigar box and tobacco leaf. A structural revelation, magnificent tannins simultaneously achieve mineral-fine texture and mouth-embracing endurance.

Vasse Felix Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec 2020

$200 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2040-2060

81% cabernet sauvignon, 16% malbec, 3% petit verdot; matured in 54% new French oak barriques

The simmering power of a low-yielding, warm summer is finished with the perfect tannins of slow ripening in autumn. The original 1967 cabernet and malbec blocks of Vasse Felix have risen to the occasion, making for a Tom Cullity that unites detailed accuracy with towering impact. Malbec and a touch of petit verdot bring savoury complexity, structural fullness, even hints of cigar box to the dense blackcurrant and cassis of cabernet. A benchmark Vasse Felix of heightened magnitude and grand endurance.

Yarra Yering Carrodus Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

$275 | Yarra Valley | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2042-2057

From the cooler, final pick in the corner of the 1969 planted No. 1 cabernet sauvignon block, this is a coiled and restrained take on a cool, dry and low-yielding vintage. Compact, crunchy, tiny blackcurrant berries are the theme, setting a core of concentration and focus, accented with layers of complexity of bay, cocoa and cedar. A beautiful assemblage of intricate, firm, fine tannins and bright acidity traces a long and enduring finish. One for the long-haul.

Penfolds Bin 169 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

$300 | Coonawarra | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2047-2062

Matured 16 months in 83% new French oak hogsheads

I love 2021 in Coonawarra and Peter Gago ranks 2022 even marginally ahead. Bin 169 is a benchmark of definition and endurance, setting the character and concentration of the region firmly in the structural longevity that proclaims Penfolds. At once deep and bright in colour, aroma and flavour, this is a textbook expression of pure blackcurrant, tobacco leaf and cedar. I love its purity, brightness and energy, with the intricate, limestone-mineral tannin frame that will hold it confidently for the next forty years!

Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

$800 | South Australia | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2052-2072

Coonawarra, Barossa Valley, Padthaway and McLaren Vale; matured 18 months in 100% new American oak

The grand juxtaposition of densely compacted power and towering structure that set Bin 707 off with epic longevity are heightened in the cool nights of 2022. A deep singularity of blackcurrant and cassis sets the definition of varietal integrity, with all the impact of Penfolds’ new American oak impacting layers of high cocoa dark chocolate and immense tannin scaffolding. For all of its expansive proportions, it retains consummate control and tightly-coiled endurance that will sustain it confidently for half a century.

Orando Jacaranda Ridge Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

$70 | Coonawarra | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2038-2058

Jacaranda Ridge has always been scaffolded for the cellar, and hailing from what Chief Winemaker Tim Pelquest-Hunt describes as ‘a near perfect vintage’ this is set to go down among the greats. Even at a full 5.5 years of age, there’s a lively crunch and pop to its deep blackcurrant fruit that confidently takes 65% new French oak in its stride. It’s long, seamlessly woven and benchmark Coonawarra. Patience.

St Hugo Daniel Ricciardo D3R South Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

$80 | South Australia | Cork | 14.0% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2036-2051

I’ve been buying and cellaring St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet for 25 years, and it’s the cooler seasons I love most, so it’s no surprise that the second release of Daniel Ricciardo’s take on cabernet from the cool 2021 season is a belter. I love the seamless juxtaposition here between dense and confident yet pristine, crunchy and bright blackcurrant fruit, bright acid pop and a splay of super fine tannins promising grand longevity. 45% new French oak has been perfectly deployed to complete a very serious and enduring cabernet.

Xanadu Stevens Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

$100 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2031-2041

The wet 2021 season in Margaret River did not produce a Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon at Xanadu, but Stevens Road proved eminently worthy of the vintage. A core of varietal integrity is defined in black- and redcurrant fruit and more pronounced ceder than usual, impressively lifted by violet fragrance. It’s woven in fine threads of taut tannins that draw out tremendous persistence that will carry it long and strong into the coming decades.

Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

$130 | South Australia | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2042-2052

Coonawarra, Padthaway, Wrattonbully, McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley; matured 12 months in 25% new French and 11% new American oak hogsheads

From a vintage that Peter Gago ranks even marginally above the very impressive 2021 in Coonawarra, this is a Bin 407 that delivers a core of compact, textbook blackcurrant, cassis and blackberry fruit, set to a framework of strong, fine-grained tannins, limestone mineral tannins and the bright acidity of cool nights. French and American oak deepen tannin presence and contribute high cocoa dark chocolate character. An enduring Bin 407 of great character, endurance and grandeur.

Yarra Yering Dry Red Wine No1 2022

$150 | Yarra Valley | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2037-2052

Cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec and petit verdot planted in 1969.

There is a grand juxtaposition set here between the concentrated focus of low yields, the tension of a cool harvest and the structure of a dry season. The result layers herbal complexity of bay and thyme over a core of tightly-coiled blackcurrant and blackberry fruit accented with tobacco leaf and cedar. The energy of cool acidity meshes with the intricate and taut structure of fruit and high class French oak tannins to lay out a long and magnificent finish. Patience.

Chapel Hill The MV McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

$33 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2036-2046

The attentiveness and talent of the Chapel Hill team have drawn out glorious levels of regional and varietal definition in this benchmark, cool season. Black- and redcurrants, cassis, cedar, tobacco leaf, black olive and high cocoa dark chocolate are all here, set to nuances of iodine from nearby St Vincent Gulf. Intricately honed, fine-grained tannins carry a finish of grand persistence and fantastic longevity. One of the greatest yet, and fantastic value.

Mount Horrocks Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

$62 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 14.2% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024-2037

I have long admired the varietal integrity of cabernet sauvignon that Stephanie Toole’s gentle touch is able to uphold in the Clare. It’s in the cooler seasons that it has its finest expression. The thing that sets it apart in 2022 is that it achieves all this with enticing depth and succulence of blackcurrants, cassis and violets. It’s delightful from the outset, and magnificently fine tannins will hold it steady long indeed.

Utopos Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

$85 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2041-2051

Planted 1997; matured in a new 2500L foudre and seasoned French oak barriques for 18 months

Cabernet sauvignon rarely shows this level of varietal distinction or elegance on the Barossa floor. Refreshingly and unashamedly medium-bodied it’s framed in a brilliant lattice of vibrant acidity and fine-grained tannin that promise a very long life. I love the effect of the elegance of French oak in this season, and the expansive and refined air of a new foudre is masterfully played.

Oakridge Winery Block Oakridge Vineyard Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

$95 | Yarra Valley | Screw Cap | 13.8% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2041-2051

This is a cabernet sauvignon built unashamedly for the long-haul, well capturing the medium-bodied style that exemplifies the Yarra in a cool season. Crunchy redcurrant fruit is confidently scaffolded in bright acidity and a magnificent display of fine-grained, long-enduring, sinewy fruit and French oak tannins. Patience.

Henschke Cyril Henschke Eden Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

$180 | Eden Valley | Vinolok | 14.0% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2029-2039

From vines now more than 50 years of age, this is a vintage that captures warm and dry season density of blackcurrant and cassis fruit with lifted cigar box and rose hip. Impressive fruit crunch and persistence is countered with the fine-grained, drying tannin profile of this low-yielding vintage. It displays the craftsmanship that will be rewarded in the cellar. A beautiful Cyril.

Orlando Bungalow Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

$35 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2031-2041

Willandra vineyard on Jacob’s Creek, and a Greenock vineyard; 40% new French oak.

The brightness of the great 2021 season gives impressive texture and finesse to Barossa cabernet, balancing the depth of deep blackcurrant and cassis fruit. Impressive acid drive supports its fine-ground, mineral tannins that draw out a long finish and grand longevity. One of the greatest under this label.

Moss Wood Amys Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

$39 | Margaret River | Screw Cap

94 points | Drink 2027-2034

A beautifully poised and consummately balanced Amys that captures the crunch of red- and blackcurrant fruit and supports it with nicely balanced, high-class, dark chocolate French oak. Bright acidity and fine-grained tannins are neatly resolved, carrying a long finish of undeviating line and length.

Xanadu Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

$40 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2031-2039

The attentiveness and mastery of the Xanadu team is evident here in the wet 2021 harvest, capturing cabernet with varietal integrity of crunch blackcurrant fruit and tobacco leaf, impeccably framed in firm, fine-grained tannins and classy cedar and dark chocolate French oak. Benefitting from fruit that would otherwise be promoted into Reserve, this is a great result, with a strong future before it.

Zema Estate Family Selection Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

$50 | Coonawarra | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2033-2043

Zema’s flagship cabernet captures the limestone mineral tannins of Coonawarra and adds the support of high-class, fine-grained French oak to define a distinguished and enduring style. Precise blackcurrant and cassis fruit confirms varietal integrity, carrying a finish of impressive line and focused persistence. A great Zema with a long future before it.

John Duval Wines Compono Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

$55 | Barossa | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2032-2047

Second release, 64% Barossa Valley (High Moppa) and 36% Eden Valley (Hutton Vale Farm)

Uniting two-thirds Barossa Valley (high Moppa) and one-third Eden Valley (Hutton Vale farm), this is a cabernet that delivers the compact depth of the Barossa with all the tension of this cool season. The result is textbook varietal integrity of blackcurrants, cassis and cigar box, well supported by high class dark chocolate French oak. Firm fine tannins and bright acidity make this a cabernet for the future.

Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

$55 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2031-2041

Vasse Felix’s vines have turned on a cracking cabernet to commemorate their 50th vintage, delivering pinpoint varietal definition with grand concentration and enduring structural confidence. It ticks all the boxes of blackcurrants, cassis and tobacco, intricately interlocked with fine-grained, dark chocolate and coffee bean French oak, with a strong future riding on a long finish.

Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

$65 | Coonawarra | Cork

94 points | Drink 2034-2044

A Menzies of impressively structured form and black fruit expression, with coiled blackcurrants, liquorice and dark chocolate French oak. Tightly wound and persistent, this is a vintage for the long-haul.

Wirra Wirra The Angelus McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

$75 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2032-2040

McLaren Vale is unique as a warm region capable of making cabernet sing even in warm, dry seasons like 2020. Blackcurrant and cassis define varietal integrity, confidently framed in strong, fine, bony tannins that scream out for a long life in the cellar. The moderating influence of this maritime region uphold balanced acidity and enduring energy.

Zema Estate Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

$30 | Coonawarra | Screw Cap | 14.8% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2034-2044

At once impressively honed and tightly coiled and yet ripe and generous, this is a Coonawarra cabernet of grand potential. Ripe blackcurrant and cassis fruit are confidently presented in fine-grained French oak tannins that uphold focus and persistence. Patience.

Bleasdale Frank Potts 2021

$35 | Langhorne Creek | Screw Cap

93 points | Drink 2029-2041

The cool 2021 season has elevated an impressive Frank Potts, upholding the luscious density and depth true to Langhorne Creek and setting it to a vibrant and tangy mood of enduring potential. Firm, fine tannins are beautifully resolved on a long and effortless finish.

Zema Estate Cluny Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot 2018

$25 | Coonawarra | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

92 points | Drink 2028-2033

A bargain Coonawarra blend for the cellar, built on a core of well-structured cabernet, fleshed out with merlot and accented with touches of malbec and cabernet franc. Crunchy blackcurrant and cassis fruit enjoys a fragrant violet lift, encased in a cage of confident cabernet tannins.

Wickhams Road Yea Valley Cabernet Franc 2022

$20 | Upper Goulburn | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

90 points | Drink 2032-2042

The inaugural Wickhams Road Cabernet Franc hails from the cool Yea Valley in Upper Goulburn, achieving impeccable ripeness and varietal integrity in the cool 2022 season. Crunchy redcurrant fruit and firm, fine, enduring tannins are true to cabernet franc’s nature. A cellaring special at a bargain price.

Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz

Penfolds Bin 180 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz 2021

$1180 | Coonawarra | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

99 points | Drink 2041-2071

57% cabernet sauvignon from Penfolds Block 10, 43% shiraz from Penfolds Block 5; matured 16 months in 100% one-year-old French oak. 57% cabernet sauvignon, 43% shiraz. To acknowledge the 180th anniversary of Penfolds in 2024, Peter Gago introduces Bin 180 in the context of the legendary special bin and commemorative releases of Penfolds’ past. ‘Cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, the great Australian blend, delivered not in American but in French oak!’ he exclaims. ‘All one-year-old oak, since this is not a blend about bigness or power but more about poise, character and Coonawarra!’

The opportunity for Penfolds to create a bold and bombastic blend to commemorate its 180th anniversary must have been tempting, and I love that it chose a very different and compelling path, highlighting not the grandeur of the warmer regions of South Australia in new American oak but the definition and tension of Coonawarra in the epic and cool 2021 season, sensitively framed in seasoned French oak. The definitive Australian blend has been recreated here with classic, fine-boned precision, singing with all the lifted brightness of this cool, traditional season. The crunchy redcurrant and blackcurrant fruit of cabernet sauvignon is perfectly integrated with the blackberries of shiraz. Fine-grained, limestone-mineral tannins like only Coonawarra can conjure are perfectly harmonised with the structural support of French oak. The result is one of the finest wines of the modern era of Penfolds and the epitome and exemplar that less is indeed oh so very much more. It is a worthy winner of my Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz of the Year, Red Wine of the Year and Wine of the Year!

Yalumba The Caley Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2019

$370 | Coonawarra | Cork | 14.0% alcohol

98 points | Drink 2039-2059

77% Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Barossa Shiraz

There is a fine-tuned poise and coiled endurance that propels this as an enduring, bright and energetic Caley that transcends the dry 2019 vintage. A fine web of intricately crafted tannins is the signature of The Caley, honing and refining precise fruit that interlocks gorgeous Coonawarra cabernet (77%), deep-set Barossa shiraz and high cocoa dark chocolate French oak in impeccable focus on a never-ending finish. This is another benchmark vintage for what has quickly established itself as one of Australia’s greatest wines.

Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2021

$70 | Barossa | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2036-2051

The expression of cabernet in the Barossa’s coolest seasons is something to behold, and Yalumba has captured this with particular fragrance and textbook varietal definition in the stunning 2021 vintage, putting forth a benchmark Signature of beautifully refined and pristine purity. Perfectly ripe cabernet of crunchy blackcurrant fruit purity is eloquently boosted by juicy shiraz of definition and presence, uniting concentration with intricate focus and poise. Bright, cool season acidity and refined, beautifully fine-grained tannins promise grand longevity. One of the greats in the distinguished lineage of The Signature.

Howard Park A.S.W. Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2022

$75 | Margaret River | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2032-2047

A cabernet shiraz blend is unusual in Margaret River and A.S.W. is an exemplar of its potential. A single site expression of the great Leston vineyard, 30% shiraz brings mid-palate depth and body do cabernet sauvignon, perfectly integrated with French oak and finished with a touch of American oak. Crunchy blackcurrant fruit meets blackberry depth, carried by beautifully fine, gravelly tannins and bright acidity of enduring potential.

Jacob’s Creek Johann Shiraz Cabernet 2018

$120 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2028-2038

The last shiraz cabernet blend under Johann. 60% shiraz from 1921 Willandra plantings, 40% cabernet also from Willandra from 1990s plantings. 40% new French oak.

The grand old Willandra vineyard on the banks of Jacob’s creek is one of the finest in the Jacob’s creek estate and declares its grand depth and confidence here. Impressive presence of blackberry, black plum and dark chocolate fruit is accented with fresh liquorice and nuances of bay. An impressively crafted shiraz cabernet blend of fine-grained tannins, supple mouth feel, seamless integration and outstanding length.

Utopos Cabernet Shiraz 2021

$150 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2046-2056

Planted 1997; matured in 25% new French oak barriques for 18 months

The brilliant varietal lift and structural confidence of cabernet comes to life in the cool seasons, and its marriage with the depth and mid-palate completeness of shiraz is impeccable here. It harks back to the classic blends of the Barossa, with an equally promising future before it. A dignified and enduring newcomer to the hallowed halls of the great Australian blend.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate V&A Lane Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz 2022

$60 | Coonawarra | Screw Cap | 12.3% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2027-2042

I love the way this cool vintage harks back to the classic Australian blends of old, in a true lunchtime claret style of refreshingly low alcohol that prizes integrity and structure over glossy fruit. Cofermentation builds a beautiful harmony between the blackcurrants of cabernet and the blackberries of shiraz, though it lacks nothing in enduring potential, thanks to a magnificent, lingering tail of limestone-fine tannin structure.

Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2022

$120 | South Australia | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2042-2052

51% cabernet sauvignon, 49% shiraz; McLaren Vale, Coonawarra, Barossa Valley, Padthaway and Wrattonbully; matured 12 months in 36% new American oak hogsheads.

The great 2022 season has delivered a Bin 389 of impact and presence. The depth and breadth of supple black and red fruits of shiraz is melded seamlessly with the blackcurrant and firm, fine tannin profile of cabernet sauvignon and not insubstantial presence of sweet, dark chocolate American oak. A strong framework of firm tannins sets classic Bin 389 endurance. Another one for the ages.

Wirra Wirra The Holy Thirst Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2019

$150 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2029-2039

An equal blend of single parcels of cabernet and shiraz to the tune of just 94 dozen, this is a seamless blend that celebrates the depth and impact of a warm season in the Vale, tempered with the enduring freshness of cabernet in this maritime region. Dense blackcurrant, blackberry and cassis fruit is layered with black olive and dark chocolate, confidently scaffolded in firm, fine tannins. A benchmark McLaren Vale take on the great Australian blend!

Henschke Keyneton Euphonium 2021

$66 | Barossa | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2031-2041

I love the way the brilliant 2021 season has lifted the rose petal fragrance, heightened the brightness and polished the fine-grained tannins of Henschke’s classic blend, making for one of its finest expressions yet. A core of shiraz is tensioned with almost one-third cabernet and touches of cabernet franc and merlot, setting a beautifully refined and enduring blend.

Shiraz

Chapel Hill The Vicar Shiraz 2021

$80 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

98 points | Drink 2041-2061

There is an awesome grandeur to The Vicar in the cool and sublime 2021 season, declared in a grand juxtaposition of inky black fruit depth and high-tensile structure of the highest order. Such contrast of mesmerising depth, impeccable brightness and epic tannin structure define the very essence of McLaren Vale shiraz. This is one of the greatest wines to ever emerge from the great estate of Chapel Hill and a worthy joint winner of my Shiraz of the Year.

Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2023

$135 | Canberra | Screw Cap | 13% alcohol

98 points | Drink 2028-2053

94% shiraz, 6% viognier, 22% whole bunches, wild fermented, gently plunged over 2-3 weeks of maceration, one-third new French oak barriques and puncheons

The third cool season in a row and the latest harvest in more than a decade has delivered a glorious shiraz viognier of exquisite detail and harmony. Whole bunches (22%) and viognier (6%) seamlessly unite to heighten aromas of violets, rose petals, potpourri, white pepper, fennel seed and curry, providing dimension to a delicious core of satsuma plum, black cherry and blackberry fruit. Super-fine, granitic-mineral tannins trace a magnificent finish and confirm a Clonakilla for the ages. A worthy joint winner of my Shiraz of the Year.

Mount Pleasant Old Hill 143-Year-Old Vines Hunter Valley Shiraz 2023

$175 | Hunter Valley | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

98 points | Drink 2028-2048

These are the legendary old 1880 vines planted at Mount Pleasant by Charles King. I love the depth and brightness of black fruits and pepper that they present, the fine-boned, mineral tannins and the supple, silky, caressing mouthfeel that only grand old vines can deliver. Adrian Sparks has upheld details and transparency with sensitivity at every moment, and a gentle touch of just 15% new large format French oak. The result celebrates all there is to love about the classic elegance of Hunter shiraz. A worthy joint winner of my Shiraz of the Year.

Mount Langi Ghiran Langi Shiraz 2021

$210 | Grampians | Screw Cap | 14.8% alcohol

98 points | Drink 2031-2051

The inimitable combination of black fruit depth, liquorice complexity and bountiful black pepper is unique to Langi, and I admire it nowhere more than in the cooler seasons, of which 2021 is the modern benchmark. I love the way in which it expresses the rumbling depth of power of this site, yet with detail and poise, set to an intricate, fine-grained web of mouth-embracing tannins that promise to hold it among the most enduring of this fabled legend. A worthy joint winner of my Shiraz of the Year.

Torbreck The Laird 2018

$800 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 15.5% alcohol

98 points | Drink 2023-2048

250 dozen, in line with average production, four tonnes off four acres; 3 years in Dominque Laurent magic casks, French oak barriques, 100% new.

‘I think this is one of the best expressions of this vineyard, from a very favourable season, set up after the rainfall of 2017 in this dry-grown site. In 2017 we only used fruit off the red soil and in 2018 we were able to use both sides, off the red and the black soils. The season allowed us the hang time to get optimal maturity without desiccation, with the density and darkness that we look for. An easier vintage than 2019 and 2020 -a vintage that delivered both weight and fragrance. In the winery, this was the first vintage that had the full treatment under our temperature and humidity control. Viticulturist Nigel Blieschke was three vintages in at this time and we got it right! – Ian Hongell

The supple, silky touch of magnificent old vines is mesmerising. The depth, density and dark-fruit presence of The Laird are on full and magnificent display in 2018, in deep and alluring layers of satsuma plum, blackberries and liquorice. To achieve such magnitude and frame it in lift, purity, definition and vibrancy as strong as this is the unique hallmark of this wine and its inimitable site, brought to life more profoundly than ever by Ian Hongell and Nigel Blieschke in the first great vintage in which their efforts in the vineyard and the winery have aligned. This is one of the finest Lairds yet, and time may reveal it to be the greatest to date. A worthy joint winner of my Shiraz of the Year.

Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz Museum Release 2008

$1250 | Eden Valley | Vinolok | 14.5% alcohol

98 points | Drink 2024-2048

The first Museum & Rare release for Hill of Grace hails from the fabled 2008 season, a warm vintage that is even greater today than it was on release 11 years ago! The bountiful density of the year is encapsulated in enticingly juicy satsuma plum, black cherry and blackberry fruits that have effortlessly held poise and definition through time. The lifted five spice that characterises this site is bountifully present, permeating through a finish of breathtaking line and length, held sure by impeccably fine tannins just beginning to soften. A sensational Hill of Grace evolving in assured slow motion, glorious today and with an enormous future extending before it.

Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2021

$135 | South Australia | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2031-2051

Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale; matured 12 months in large, seasoned oak vats

The magnificent, cool 2021 season plays to the natural, effortless elegance of St Henri. Blueberry and blackberry fruit are the eloquent themes, uniting supple expression with the fine-boned confidence of cool nights. The result plays fine-grained tannins impeccably amidst bright acidity, serving to set a style set to evolve in slow motion for many decades to come. Exceptional line and length set apart one of the great St Henris of the modern era.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Coonawarra Shiraz 2021

$150 | Coonawarra | Screw Cap | 13.2% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2026-2038

Michael has long set a benchmark for Coonawarra shiraz, and the cool 2021 season has produced one of the greats in its almost 70-year history. I love the juxtaposition between cool season, fine-boned structural finesse of bright acidity and confident limestone tannins and the depth and power of intense blackberry and satsuma plum fruit, dusted with signature shiraz black pepper.

Chapel Hill The Devil McLaren Vale Shiraz 2020

$180 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2030-2040

The understated, etched front label declares ‘House Block vines established 1977.’ The oldest block of the estate, this 0.8 hectare vineyard has long been my favourite at Chapel Hill, painstakingly reworked over the past decade, and the result of its new incarnation is something to behold! This is a dramatic presentation of the dark side of McLaren Vale, leading out with pristine, glossy blackberry and black cherry fruit, fresh liquorice straps, and the signature black olives and iodine seaspray of the Vale. For all of its towering magnitude, I love its refined air and its distinguished, slender, upright lines, framed in fine-boned tannins that unite intricately polished fruit with stunning French oak, confidently declaring the talent of Michael Fragos and his team. The devil is evidently indeed in the detail!

Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz Museum Release 2013

$315 | Eden Valley | Vinolok | 14.5% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2034-2049

The 61st vintage from these 101-year-old vines was long one of my favourite Mount Edelstones and it’s exciting to see it rereleased for a rousing encore from a pallet or two held back from this long-enduring season! Another six years in the Henschke cellars have slowly elevated is savoury, spicy and dark chocolate complexity, without diminishing its bountiful core of dark berry fruits of all kinds. Fine tannin confidence promises many more years of potential still. A glorious Mount Edelstone!

Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 2019

$975 | Eden Valley | Vinolok | 14.5% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2029-2044

Now around 160 years of age, the ‘grandfathers’ of Hill of Grace yielded less than one-third of a normal harvest in the warm and dry 2019 vintage, yet their ancient confidence infuses the wine with all the seamless coherence that characterises this fabled site. Signature five spice wafts over a core of juicy, spicy dark berry fruits of all kinds, backed with high cocoa dark chocolate mostly French oak. Firm, dry season tannins are well-executed and carry a long finish that promises a spectacular future.

Penfolds Grange 2020

$1000 | South Australia | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2040-2050

97% shiraz 3% cabernet sauvignon; McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley and Clare Valley; matured 20 months in 100% new American oak hogsheads

McLaren Vale assumes the lead over the Barossa in the warm and dry 2020 season, creating a Grange of larger-than-life proportions. The depth and concentration of blackberry, blueberry and satsuma plum on display is unique to Grange, carrying all the complexity of coal steam and fresh liquorice, set to the high cocoa dark chocolate and char presence of new American oak. The gravitas of cascading classification of Penfolds sourcing is declared in a fruit integrity and definition upheld even in such a warm and dry season, a feat that this house achieves today with greater confidence than it did in decades past. This is a show-stopping Grange of impact and muscle.

Chapel Hill Road Block McLaren Vale Shiraz 2021

$70 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2029-2041

Upholding brightness, tension and structure in shiraz of depth and density has long set Chapel Hill apart in McLaren Vale, and the brilliant, cool 2021 season plays particularly confidently to its style. The ripeness here does not hold back, deeply impacted with blackberries, blueberries, satsuma plums, fresh liquorice straps, and the regional overlay of black olives, bay and iodine. It’s framed in high cocoa dark chocolate oak and beautifully fine tannins. One of the greats from this estate.

Seppelt St Peters Exceptional Vineyard Grampians Shiraz 2021

$80 | Great Western | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2041-2051

Select parcels from the Great Western Vineyard were fermented on skins (partial whole bunch and whole berry components) in open fermenters for 7-10 days, followed by maturation for 11 months in a combination of 2800L vat, 225L French barriques and 480L French puncheon with a total of 25% new oak.

In spite of the front label insinuation, this is not exclusively St Peters vineyard but a blend of the best blocks of Seppelt’s Great Western Vineyard. The natural density and exuberance of Great Western is beautifully presented with fine-boned detail in the cool and elegant 2021 season. Black plums, blackberries, liquorice and black pepper are underlined by magnificently textured tannins of mineral-fine structure, carrying a finish of honed focus and enduring promise.

Best’s Great Western Bin No 0 Shiraz 2021

$85 | Great Western | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2031-2051

The cool 2021 season has drawn out an excitingly elegant take on Best’s fabled Bin 0, heightening the characteristic white pepper and exotic spice of Great Western. I love the seamless, fine-boned texture of this release, with powder-fine tannins making for an effortless palate flow that glides through a finish of exceptional drive and enduring longevity.

Jacob’s Creek Barossa Survivor Vines Shiraz 2018

$95 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2026-2038

From a single vineyard planted in 1921 on the banks of Jacob’s Creek, this is quintessential Barossa shiraz, rejoicing in the triumphant, glossy black fruit depth of the warm 2018 harvest, yet – crucially – presenting it with integrity, brightness and vitality, even at six years of age under cork. Classy dark chocolate oak and beautifully refined, fine-grained tannins complete a very slick Barossa shiraz.

Glaetzer Amon-Ra Shiraz 2021

$99.99 | Barossa Valley | Cork

96 points | Drink 2027-2036

The grandeur of classic Glaetzer depth and density is in a magnificent place energised by the cool and lively 2021 season, making for one of the greats in the lineage of Amon-Ra. Impressive power of black plum, blackberry and black cherry sits confidently atop liquorice and dark chocolate, framed in supple, fine-grained tannins of enduring confidence. Benchmark.

Mount Langi Ghiran Mast Shiraz 2021

$100 | Grampians | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2031-2046

The long and slow ripening season of the great 2021 vintage has produced a benchmark Mast shiraz that sets a delightful contrast between the depth of satsuma plum, blackberry and black cherry fruit and the signature black pepper and spice so pronounced in the Mount Langi vineyard. I live the fine-boned structure and seamless tannin texture of this cool season, guiding a finish of great persistence and endurance.

Penfolds Magill Estate Shiraz 2022

$165 | Magill | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2027-2047

Matured 18 months in 43% new and 36% one-year-old French oak and 21% new American oak hogsheads

The naturally supple, juicy red berry fruits mood of Magill Estate loves the brightness and definition of the cool seasons, and the later ripening 2022 vintage has delivered another standout. I live its juicy, fruity core and its seamless synergy with fine-grained tannins and intricately gauged, milk chocolate French and American oak. The result is both effortlessly amicable and yet enduringly age-worthy. One of the greats in the Magill Estate lineage.

Teusner Righteous FG Shiraz 2021

$170 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 15% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2026-2036

‘Two contiguous parcels within our esteemed Wilksch vineyard at Seppeltsfield were harvested on February 26th. Whilst these blocks may not be the oldest vines in this location (one contour planted in 1995 the other in 2002 adopting a traditional North/South row orientation), their quality swiftly marked them as prime candidates for the creation of the Righteous FG Shiraz. To ensure the preservation of the fruit’s intrinsic character and vibrancy, a substantial proportion of whole berries was strategically integrated into the cool run, open ferments. These small fermenters underwent twice-daily pump-overs, allowing for a generous 10-day period on the skins before the wine was gently pressed into tanks. The next phase involved meticulous racking into a selection of new, first, second, and third use fine-grained French oak barrels. Following an exacting process of barrel selection, the final blend emerged, boasting a judicious 60% new oak.‘ – Kym Teusner

Teusner Righteous is a benchmark of full-throttle Barossa shiraz at its finest in the coolest seasons, of which 2021 is an exemplar. This single vineyard in Seppeltsfield has risen to the occasion in a fanfare of glossy blackberry and liquorice depth, set to a backdrop of high cocoa dark chocolate. Lively acidity and strong yet wonderfully fine-grained tannins carry an enduring finish. Stunning.

Mount Pleasant Rosehill 77-Year-Old Vines Hunter Valley Shiraz 2023

$175 | Hunter Valley | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2028-2043

From vines planted by Maurice O’Shea in 1946, this is a tribute to the classical elegance of Hunter Valley shiraz of the past. Sensitively handled fermentation was followed by 12 months maturation in 10% new, large format French oak, providing the transparency for these grand old vines to tell their story in fine-boned, supple tannins, gentle red and black berry fruits and ethereal persistence. Less is indeed oh so much more.

Hentley Farm H-Block Barossa Valley 2021

$205 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 14.8% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2036-2046

A benchmark single vineyard expression of the great Australian blend, basking in the deep, glossy black fruit jubilance of Greenock and beautifully lifted by the vibrant tang and natural acid freshness of the great 2021 vintage. It takes two-thirds new French oak in its stride, upholding its pristine fruit as the hero from start to long finish. Perfectly polished tannins guarantee a long and exciting future.

Best’s Great Western Thomson Family Shiraz 2020

$250 | Great Western | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2025-2040

There is an effortless assurance and grace to Henry Best’s original 1868 planted shiraz that has produced a seamless and compellingly eloquent wine that takes the dry heat of 2020 in its stride. Berry fruits and spice find a seamless accord with high cocoa dark chocolate, laced together by a web of intricately fine, supple tannins like only old vines can conjure, gently holding a very long finish. For all of its elegance, it lacks nothing in presence or potential.

Torbreck RunRig 2020

$300 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 15.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2030-2040

Almost exclusively vines planted pre-1900

The warm, low-yielding density of the 2020 season is on larger-than-life display here, A core of red fruits is attributed to the old heritage clones, and these old vines lend a deep spectrum of exotic spice, supported by supple, slippery, fine-grained yet confident tannins. A RunRig of tremendous character and opulence, with the structural fabric to go the distance in the cellar.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Old Vines Shiraz 2022

$45 | Coonawarra | Screw Cap | 13.1% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2027-2034

I love the classic refinement of the 2022 season in Coonawarra and the Wynns team have captured it with authenticity and grace in their old shiraz vines. The result is a marvellous juxtaposition of blackberry density, crunchy natural acidity and a magnificent display of super fine tannins that carry every promise of a magnificent future.

Turkey Flat Vineyards Shiraz 2021

$55 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2031-2046

Each parcel of fruit is individually vinified and aged in French oak barrels

The cool 2021 vintage has put a new spring in the step of Turkey Flat Shiraz, providing spicy lift and tang to the deep black fruits of grand old vines dating from 1847. Mineral-fine tannins are propelled by vibrant acidity to considerable persistence and compelling longevity. One of the greats.

St Hallett Blackwell Shiraz 2020

$58 | Barossa | Screw Cap

95 points | Drink 2030-2040

A classic Blackwell that carries the black fruit depth of a warm season in the Barossa with lively confidence and accurate definition, beautifully supported by fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. A classy and ageworthy Blackwell.

St Hugo Barossa Shiraz 2021

$58 | Barossa | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2031-2046

There is a classical harmony and allure to Barossa shiraz in the cool and late 2021 harvest, but only for those estates that achieved proper ripeness. The Jacob’s Creek red winemaking team have conjured one of their finest expressions of St Hugo Shiraz, centred on a core of blackberries and satsuma plums and confidently structured with firm, fine tannins. Dark chocolate and liquorice spin out of the confluence of high class fruit and distinguished oak.

Mount Pleasant Rosehill Hunter Valley Shiraz 2023

$65 | Hunter Valley | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2033-2043

A blend of vines planted in 1946 and 1965 in one of the latest-ripening sites in the Hunter, uniting to create a magnificently refined and enduring blend. A core of black cherry and black plum fruit is accented with white pepper and beautifully framed in mineral-fine tannins, sensitively caressed with just 15% new French oak. Benchmark Rosehill of elegant refinement, sensitive craftsmanship and long-term potential.

Orlando Centenary Hill Shiraz 2016

$70 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap

95 points | Drink 2031-2046

Centenary Hill is the quintessential southern Barossa shiraz, and the definition and dynamic poise and freshness upheld here at eight years of age under screw cap are something to behold. Primary black fruits and liquorice are still the theme, intricately framed in high cocoa dark chocolate and set within a fantastic chassis of firm, fine, enduring tannins. One for the long-haul.

St Hugo Daniel Ricciardo D3R South Australia Shiraz 2021

$80 | South Australia | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2031-2041

I love the bright, pure fruit integrity of the cool 2021 harvest and the way it is expressed eloquently and gracefully here, harmoniously supported by 25% new French oak. There’s a classic beauty and endurance at play here, beautifully framed in fine, confident tannins that will see it through two decades in the cellar. Fruit sourcing is not declared, but it is clearly founded fair and square on great vineyards of the Barossa.

The Willows Vineyard Bonesetter Shiraz 2021

$80 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2031-2041

Single vineyard Light Pass. 1969 planted, sandy loam over red clay soils. Hand picked and sorted, small batch open fermentation. Basket pressed to tight grain French oak hogsheads (50% new) for 24 months.

These 1969 vines have risen to their 52nd harvest, setting a wonderful juxtaposition between the blackberry, satsuma plum and liquorice depth of Light Pass and the energy and lift of this cool vintage. French oak has been sensitively deployed to build integration and longevity without interrupting this beautifully defined fruit.

Torbreck The Gask 2021

$80 | Eden Valley | Cork | 15% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2026-2036

Single vineyard Eden Valley

The stars have aligned with the refreshingly elegant 2021 season heightening the lift, spice and violet fragrance of Eden Valley shiraz, set to all the layers of blackberries, satsuma plums and liquorice that define the density and allure that sets Torbreck apart. Tannins are super fine and beautifully textured, with excellent medium-term promise. A fantastic vintage for one of the best wines in the Torbreck line up.

Penfolds Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz 2022

$100 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2032-2042

Matured 16 months in 18% new and 28% one-year-old French and 14% new and 40% one-year-old American oak hogsheads and puncheons

The supple structure and red fruits depth of Marananga shiraz are well married to the milk chocolate of French and American oak, given life and lift by the cool nights of the great 2022 harvest. Firm, fine tannins flow through a long and integrated finish. The mood of Marananga loves the brightness of the cool seasons, and this is another of the greats.

Clonakilla Syrah 2021

$120 | Canberra | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024-2031

Wild, whole berry fermentation; macerated on skins for one month; aged 22 months in fine-grained French oak puncheons.

The north-east-facing T&L vineyard is the finest on the Clonakilla property and Tim Kirk produced just one barrel (630 bottles) in the cool and wet 2021 season that he describes as ‘more European.’ The result is beautifully medium-bodied, red-fruited, spice-laden and softly structured wine of fine, supple tannins, ready to enjoy from the outset, and with medium-term potential.

Yalumba The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz 2019

$160 | Barossa | Cork

95 points | Drink 2029-2039

55% Eden Valley Shiraz and 45% Barossa Valley Shiraz with an average vine age of 104 years. The Clifton Park Shiraz vineyard (25% of the blend), Yalumba’s oldest shiraz block, is located in Eden Valley in a hamlet known as Wilton and was planted in 1854 on own roots.

Vines dating from 1854 and now averaging 104 years of age take the dry 2019 season in their stride, projecting a magnificent benchmark that unites density and juicy depth of sweet, warm season shiraz with intricately honed, enduring structure. The Eden Valley takes the lead here (55%), emphasising its theme of juicy dark fruits and deep-set spice, set to a carefully measured backdrop of high cocoa dark chocolate oak. Super fine, supple, old vine tannins carry a long finish.

Penfolds RWT Bin 798 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2022

$200 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 14.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2042-2052

Matured 14 months in 67% new French oak hogsheads

There is a coiled depth to the black fruits, liquorice and high cocoa dark chocolate of Barossa shiraz, confidently set to a rigid framework of French oak tannin confidence. I love the way the cool nights of 2022 season infuse definition and character to the expansive depth that proclaims Barossa! One for the cellar.

Hentley Farm Clos Otto Barossa Valley Shiraz 2021

$270 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 14.8% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2036-2041

Picked in three separate passes, there is a contrast here between the luscious glossiness of Greenock shiraz and the energy and bright tanginess of the cool summer of 2021. The result is a compelling evenness and harmony that celebrates a confident framework of enduring, fine-grained tannins. A benchmark Clos Otto with a grand future before it.

Torbreck The Struie 2021

$30 | Barossa | Cork | 15% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2026-2031

‘40% Eden Valley, much more than usual and the most ever, because the quality was there to bring fragrance and graphite tannins to the wines.‘ – Ian Hongell

A juicy, glossy core of spicy black fruits, liquorice and black pastilles highlights the highest proportion of Eden Valley fruit in the blend yet, at once deep, dark and immensely spicy and at the same time lifted and wonderfully poised thanks to the cool 2021 season. Fantastic Struie completed impeccably with the fine-grained graphite tannins of the Eden.

Mount Horrocks Alexander Vineyard Clare Valley Shiraz 2022

$58 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2026-2034

There’s a beautiful harmony drawn out of Stephanie Toole’s refined approach that is particularly evident in the cooler seasons in the Clare. This produces a shiraz of notable varietal integrity, popping with blackberry fruit perfectly framed in bright acidity, dark chocolate French oak and fine-grained, confident tannins. This is one of the greats. And it will age, too!

Mount Langi Ghiran Talus Shiraz 2021

$60 | Grampians | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2026-2036

The cool 2021 season sets a beautiful profile of pure blueberry fruits and elevates the signature black pepper of Langi. The juicy and glossy mood of this label perfectly contrasts the fine-boned style of the season, structured with super fine tannins. Perfect now while Mast and Langi rest in the cellar.

Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 2022

$75 | Coonawarra | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2027-2037

Matured 12 months in 30% new French oak hogsheads.

Peter Gago ranks 2022 even marginally above the very impressive 2021 harvest in Coonawarra, a statement backed by the grace and definition of this shiraz. Textbook blueberry and blackberry fruit are sensitively framed in dark chocolate French oak, structured equally by fine-grained, limestone-mineral tannins and the well-defined natural acidity of cool nights. It holds impressive persistence and promise.

Yalumba The Steeple Barossa Valley Shiraz 2019

$80 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2029-2034

Planted in 1919, the 2019 vintage marks a monumental moment in the life of these biodynamically grown Light Pass vines. They have risen to the moment, capturing this warm and dry season in all of its depth and weight of concentrated dark berries, satsuma plums, liquorice and high cocoa dark chocolate. French oak weaves a firm, fine-grained framework and medium-term promise.

Paisley Wines Texture Series Angaston Shiraz 2019

$90 | Eden Valley | Screw Cap | 15% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2029-2041

100% shiraz from the Paisley Estate Vineyard in Angaston, Eden Valley.

This cool, high vineyard in Angaston has made for a bright and vibrant shiraz that transcends its warm and dry vintage. Spicy black fruits are underlined by sarsaparilla, cola and liquorice. Fine, confident tannins promise a great future in the cellar.

Paisley Wines Texture Series Lyndoch Shiraz 2019

$90 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 15% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2029-2036

100% shiraz from 90-year-old vines in Lyndoch in the southern Barossa Valley.

Paisley’s single vineyard bottlings exemplify the diversity of Barossa terroir, and this is a beautiful take on the supple and endearing mood of Lyndoch in the south. Vines of more than 90 years of age have held their confidence, transcending the warmth of this drought vintage with a juicy core of red and black fruits, neatly framed in classy French oak.

Torbreck The Factor 2020

$150 | Barossa Valley | Cork | 15% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2023-2030

The 2020 vintage has delivered a Factor of impressive density and ripeness, signature Barossa shiraz layered with plum liqueur and spicy blackberry fruit, accented with liquorice and dark chocolate. For all of tis richness it’s accurately centred on a core of fruit brightness and integrity, framed in fine-grained tannins. A Factor of awe and magnitude that encapsulates the modern era of Torbreck and the marriage of brightness with density in wines of beauty and longevity.

Torbreck Hillside Vineyard Shiraz and Roussanne 2022

$30 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 15% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2024-2029

10% roussanne co-fermented; small casks; no new oak; 500 dozen

‘2022 was difficult for us due to a hail band from Roennfeldt Road to Tanunda and we got hit hard by golf ball-sized hail that stripped the vines, which had a foot of growth at the time. It’s harder to make wine due to the pressure of rain and disease in a cool vintage but you can make better wines. And every time it rains it resets the count for us in trying to make wines of density.’ – Ian Hongell

Black-fruited and juicy in the classic mood of Torbreck, with the wonderfully vibrant violet lift and tangy berry brightness of the cool 2022 season. The tannins are super fine and mineral, with a wonderful texture that will hold its confidence in the cellar for the short-term. The result is not only one of the best Hillsides to date, it’s one of the finest Torbreck wines at this price point ever.

Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz 2022

$32 | Hilltops | Screw Cap | 13.5% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2023-2030

There is something quite special about a truly cool season in the Hilltops, and I love the medium-bodied elegance and most of all the heightened varietal character that it has drawn out of shiraz. This is a fine-boned wine of fine-strung, mineral tannins, tangy acid drive, crunchy blackberry fruit and that glorious white pepper that only cool climate shiraz can deliver. For all it represents, an absolute bargain. And age-worthy, too!

Deep Woods Shiraz et al 2022

$25 | Margaret River | Screw Cap

92 points | Drink 2024-2027

The “et al” is 10% malbec and 4% tempranillo, which serve to bring structural framing to Margaret River shiraz. Impressive depth of colour and intensity of flavour makes for a dense expression of Margaret River that expresses juicy, ripe blackberry and black plum fruit, even liquorice depth. Fine tannins underline a long finish. Impressive and crowd-friendly value for money.

Turkey Flat Vineyards Butchers Block Shiraz 2022

$25 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

92 points | Drink 2025-2027

Boasting the lift and freshness of 15% whole bunches, Butchers Block confidently meets its brief of a lighter and brighter expression of Barossa shiraz. I love its pure satsuma plum and blackberry fruits, its tangy acidity and finely textured tannins. It took some years of experimentation and boundary-pushing to get the style right, and it’s landed in the right place!

Teusner Riebke Barossa Valley Shiraz 2021

$30 | Barossa Valley | Screw Cap | 14.5% alcohol

92 points | Drink 2024-2026

‘The Riebke family have been growing some of the best grapes in the Ebenezer district for six successive generations.‘ – Kym Teusner

Kym Teusner’s beloved Riebke has put on a strong performance in his 20th vintage. The spicy, black fruit depth of Ebenezer is well expressed here, refreshingly enlivened with the natural acidity and fine-grained tannins of the cool 2021 season. The result is one of the best in the Barossa under $30.

Hentley Farm Villian & Vixen Shiraz 2022

$24.99 | Barossa | Screw Cap

91 points | Drink 2025-2032

Impressive depth of colour and fruit weight, this is a bargain Hentley that presents spicy black and red berry fruits set against a backdrop of liquorice and dark chocolate. Fine-grained, well balanced tannins and bright, cool season acidity complete a finish of length and integrity.

Tar & Roses Shiraz 2021

$25 | Heathcote | Screw Cap

91 points | Drink 2024-2026

There is impressive depth and structure here of sweet, ripe, juicy, black Heathcote fruit, framed in fine, earthy tannins. It’s well balanced, great value and ready to drink now.

Other Reds

Mount Horrocks Clare Valley Nero d’Avola 2022

$47 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2024-2027

Stephanie Toole’s cool, high site in Watervale produces a beautiful expression of nero, with a gorgeous core of black cherry and black berry fruits with a violet lift. The vibrant acidity of the cool 2022 harvest sets off soft, supple, impeccably fine tannins. Gorgeous drinking from the outset. Best yet.

Best’s Great Western Old Vine Pinot Meunier 2022

$125 | Great Western | Screw Cap | 12% alcohol

94 points | Drink 2027-2037

Only made in 2011, 2012, 2016, 2017, 2019, 2020 and 2021. Hand picked, hand sorted, hand plunged in open vats. Aged in French oak barrels.

I love the way the cool 2022 season has heightened the fragrance, lift, freshness and detail of the meunier of these grand old vines. Planted in 1868, they must be some of the oldest on earth. Rose petal, violets, morello cherry, sarsaparilla, blackberry and even fresh liquorice are all present in bountiful measure, impeccably presented in a fine-boned structural framework of mineral tannins and tense, cool season acidity that unite to compelling effect to promise grand longevity. One of the finest and most enduring solo meuniers I have ever tasted.

Chapel Hill The MV McLaren Vale Mourvèdre 2022

$33 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap | 14.0% alcohol

93 points | Drink 2027-2037

It takes some skill in both the vines and the wines to craft mourvèdre of enticing, bright, juicy drinkability without compromising its inherent savoury mood and drying tannin scaffolding. This vintage hits the perfect balance at Chapel Hill, brimming with black fruits and savoury spice, concluding with a finish honed by confident, accurate tannins.

Coriole Sangiovese 2022

$30 | McLaren Vale | Screw Cap

92 points | Drink 2027-2032

Sangiovese basked in the cool 2022 season in McLaren Vale, heightening its red berry fruit lift and accenting the synergy of fine-boned tannins and vibrant acidity. Coriole has long been a benchmark, and this is as accurate and delicious as it comes. It will age, too.

Tar & Roses Tempranillo 2022

$30 | King Valley | Screw Cap

92 points | Drink 2024-2029

Tar & Roses has long been a benchmark of well-priced tempranillo, and the cool 2022 season has delivered another stunner. I love the juxtaposition here between depth of dark berry, cherry and satsuma plum fruit, the brightness of cool King Valley acidity and the gentle scaffolding of firm, fine tannins.

Dessert & Fortified

Stanton & Killeen Rare Rutherglen Topaque NV

$145 | Rutherglen | Screw Cap | 18.5% alcohol

97 points | Drink 2024

With an average age of 25 years and including component dating from the 1970s, this is a rare topaque of incredible depth and complexity, skilfully blended to the perfect balance of sweetness, tang, spirit, fruit and grand old rancio personality. Coffee bean, tea leaves, fruit cake, high cocoa dark chocolate and toffee billow in a grand crescendo at once lusciously extravagant and at the same time fresh and poised. Brilliant. A worthy winner of my Fortified of the Year.

Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut Clare Valley Riesling 2024

$45 | Clare Valley | Screw Cap | 11.6% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2024-2044

Cordon Cut is one of my favourite Australian dessert wines, and Stephanie Toole has beautifully captured the cool and elegant 2024 harvest in her latest release. I love its precision and purity, perfectly capturing a wide kaleidoscope of fruit from lemon and lime to peach and nectarine and the exoticism of apricot and persimmon. Zest and flesh contrast perfectly on a finish of perfectly balanced sweetness and racy, cool season acidity. One of the true greats!

Stanton & Killeen Grand Rutherglen Muscat NV

$105 | Rutherglen | Screw Cap | 18.5% alcohol

96 points | Drink 2024

Depth of colour and viscous texture declare a Rutherglen muscat that transcends its average age of 15-20 years. Ravishing complexity captures everything from the freshness of marmalade and apricot jam to the rumbling depths of toffee, dark fruit cake and prunes. Impeccable balance sets of an eternal finish. Brilliant.

McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate 20 Year Old Rare Tawny NV

$80 | Riverina | Screw Cap | 19.5% alcohol

95 points | Drink 2024

McWilliam’s grand depth of fortified reserves sees a new lease on life under the ownership of the Calabria family. A blend of 16-22 year old base wines of touriga, shiraz and grenache, there’s a compelling synergy here between rancio and dark chocolate complexity, fruit cake and dried fig sweetness and high class, heady brandy spirit. It’s seamless, long and delicious.

By Tyson Stelzer

05 Oct 2024

Tyson Stelzer is a multi-award winning wine writer, television host and producer and international speaker. He was named The International Wine & Spirit Communicator of the Year, The Australian Wine Communicator of the Year and The International Champagne Writer of the Year. He is the author and publisher of seventeen wine books, contributor to many wine magazines, a frequent judge and chair at Australian wine shows and a presenter at wine events in 12 countries. TysonStelzer.com is your link to wine recommendations, book sales, tours and events.

Spicers Peak Lodge Champagne Weekend - 7-9 March 2025

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Tyson Stelzer’s Top 250 Australian Wines of 2024

Tyson Stelzer’s Wines of the Year

Wine of the Year

White Wine of the Year

Red Wine of the Year

Sparkling White of the Year

Sparkling Red of the Year

Riesling of the Year

Chardonnay of the Year

Other White of the Year

Pinot Noir of the Year

Grenache of the Year

Cabernet Sauvignon of the Year

Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz of the Year

Shiraz of the Year

Dessert & Fortified of the Year

Tyson Stelzer’s Top 250 Wines of 2024

Sparkling

Riesling

Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon

Chardonnay

Other Whites

Rosé

Pinot Noir

Grenache

Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz

Shiraz

Other Reds

Dessert & Fortified