Bill Downie’s three pinots are more distinctive than ever, and presented blind it wasn’t hard to pick them on their bouquets alone. From vines now fifteen years of age, his Mornington is often my favourite of the trilogy, with an ethereal bouquet of rose petals, brambles and dried flowers. The palate is immaculately poised, with the purest morello cherries of exquisite definition and character. A depth of red fruit presence is enveloped in lively acid presence and fine, silky yet prominent tannins lingering with profound persistence, suggesting great potential. $60 at WineStar.