The backbone of Black Label are Wynns’ magnificent single vineyards on the terra rossa strip. The 2012 is classic Coonawarra cabernet, back in the admirably restrained mould of 2009. It’s an excellent release, classic, fine-boned, taut and drawn, built around a fine scaffold of rigid, fine and textural tannins. There’s a core of coiled blackcurrant fruit of focused definition; elegantly medium-bodied and effortless, with fine, mineral tannins drawn from the limestone of Coonawarra. It seems the official price is edging ever higher, though the best street prices remain at the same affordable level. $26 at Chambers Cellars and Jim Murphy’s.