Treasury Wine Estate’s philosophy of inflating Michael’s price alongside John Riddoch is daring. As distinguished as Michael may be, he’s consistently outclassed by his sibling, making a 67% price rise over two years look like too much to pay. The 2010 is a complex and savoury style, taking quite some time for black plum, dark berry and violet fragrance to emerge from a background of game, charcuterie, black pepper and liquorice. It’s built around an impressively taut and fine frame of well-structured tannins, supporting great persistence. Carrying the concentration and depth of the season, it manages to retain impressive poise and effortless style. $110 at Jim’s Cellars.