Red Claw is no generic second label, rather a sophisticated estate chardonnay crafted from the same vineyards and hand harvested, whole bunch pressed, French oak barrel fermented and aged on lees in precisely the manner of Yabby Lake’s top chardonnays. On its sheer consistency alone, this should be Yabby Lake Estate Chardonnay and all above it classified as Reserve. It’s a complex and funky chardonnay, loaded with lees complexity of struck flint and charcuterie over an impressive fruit profile, taut and honed, built around lemon zest and grapefruit of considerable persistence. $22 at Dan Murphy’s and Jimmy Watsons.